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Dunster and the Exmoor Coast

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The prettiest town in the west

Most people heading for a seaside break in the West Country might be tempted to keep the pedal on the metal all the way through lovely Somerset, as the famous beaches of Devon and Cornwall beckon. But for weekenders, this gorgeous stretch of coastline is heaven sent - not only is it infinitely quicker to get to, but it’s super pretty, with some great towns and villages to explore and the wild expanse of Exmoor literally on the doorstep.

On the eastern edge of the moor, a mile’s walk from the sea, is idyllic Dunster - the perfect place to base yourself on a trip to the Exmoor coast. Spend your days on the beach, following the South West Coast Path or walking the moors, then kick back and relax in the shadow of Dunster’s romantic castle. Preferably with a pint of cloudy Somerset cider.

What to see?

Dunster’s winding high street and bustling market place are a treasure trove of historic buildings - with over 200 boasting Grade I or II listing. Meanwhile, towering over everything, is Dunster’s ridiculously romantic Dunster Castle, which sits on a wooded hill overlooking the village. Nothing remains of the original Saxon fortifications that stood on the hill, and its medieval replacement was totalled during the Civil War, but the castle’s current, mainly 19th-century, incarnation is lovely, with its fairytale turrets and towers. You can wander around the Jacobean and Victorian interiors, or spend hours in the stunning terraced gardens that surround the castle, with their amazing collection of sub-tropical plants, plus the national collection of strawberry trees and Britain’s oldest lemon tree. It doesn’t get much more exciting than that! If none of that appeals, then the views from the castle and grounds certainly will - far-reaching vistas of Dunster, Exmoor and the Bristol Channel. Beautiful.

Back down in the village there are plenty of opportunities for a potter about. The covered Yarn Market, built in around 1600 and boasting war wounds from the Civil War is worth a nose, while Dunster Water Mill on Mill Lane is a lovely, tranquil place to sit and listen to the bubble of the river and the creaking of the restored 18th century water wheel. For another, even more exciting, blast from the past, walk the half a mile to Dunster’s West Somerset Railway station and board a steam train. The trains stop at the long and sandy Blue Anchor Beach just a mile from Dunster and the lovely little harbour town of Watchet, before travelling inland, past the Quantock Hills, towards Taunton.

Dunster beach is long, wide, sandy and sheltered. Famous for its beach huts - there’s over two hundred of them - it’s a buzzy beach, but is big enough not to get overcrowded in the summer. To the west is the big resort at Minehead, complete with pier, Butlins and as many crazy golf holes as it takes to fill the Albert Hall. The seaside town is also the official starting point for the six hundred and thirty mile South West Coast Path, which follows the coast all the way round the edge of Britain to Poole in Dorset. The first section, from Minehead to Porlock Weir, is jaw-dropping and the best way to appreciate the drama of Exmoor’s coastline, the highest section of coastline in the UK. The cliffs rise and fall beneath you as the seagulls swoop and the waves crash, while on a clear day you can see the rugged Welsh coastline on the opposite side of the Bristol Channel. After nine miles, the path reaches Porlock Weir, a tiny port with its own flotilla of yachts and fishing boats. The harbour is dwarfed by the cliffs that surround it, while its far-reaching shingle beach makes it perfect for paddling and romantic coastal strolls. If you fancy walking a little further, the two mile walk along the coastal path from Porlock Weir to the hamlet of Culbone is particularly stunning - a favourite stroll for local hero Samuel Taylor Coleridge, it winds through dappled woodland, with a sheer drop to the sea on one side and glimpses of glittering water through the trees. The tiny church at Culbone - said to be the smallest in England, and only reachable by the footpath, is really lovely. There are regular buses from Porlock back to Minehead and Dunster.

Of course, there’s plenty of Exmoor to explore other than the coastline, and Dunster is brilliantly placed for venturing into the heart of the National Park. Walking routes from Dunster and nearby are endless - both the thirty six mile Coleridge Way and the Exmoor Ridgeway pass close by. One of the most obvious places to head for is Dunkery Beacon - just over three miles from Dunster - which, at 1,705 ft is the highest point in southern England, outside Dartmoor, and in summer is blanketed in beautiful, purple heather.

Other lovely spots within easy reach include the very pretty Snowdrop Valley that lines part of the River Avill - visit in early Spring to see an amazing white carpet of snow drops at their spectacular best - and the forest-covered Grabbist Hill, which was apparently the inspiration for the school assembly classic ‘All things bright and beautiful’. The vast, National Trust-owned Holnicote Estate is also nearby, including over one hundred miles of windy paths, some stunning Exmoor villages - little thatched Selworthy, six miles from Dunster, is unthinkably gorgeous - and four miles of that spectacular Bristol Channel coastline.

Or why not try?

Exmoor Riding

One of the best ways to explore the beautiful Exmoor countryside is on horseback. This friendly stables in Porlock, just a few miles from Dunster, organise hacks from one hour to a full day. Great for beginners and experts alike.

Around and about

Walking in this corner of the UK is wonderful. Paths follow the coast from Dunster beach in both directions: the 25-mile West Somerset Coast Path to the east and the famous South West Coast Path starting its 630 miles to the west. Then, of course, there are hundreds of paths heading inland, cross-crossing the vast Exmoor National Park. For a lovely 7-mile taster, this ramble from Dunster up and around Grabbist Hill will certainly get your heart pumping. From the side of the hill, the views across the Bristol Channel are stunning, while the views back over Exmoor aren’t bad either. The walk also takes in the pretty village of Wootton Courteney, with its thatched cottages and 15th century church, and glimpses of the famous Dunkery Beacon.

Length of walk: 6.8 miles Effort: A big climb up Grabbist Hill, then you can enjoy the scenery! Picnic spots: Anywhere with those views is an obvious spot. Refreshments: You’ll have to wait until you’re back in Dunster before you can hit the pub for a well-earned pint. The Stags Head - the oldest pub in town - is a cosy place to cool down.

Head out of Dunster on West Street, before turning right onto Knowle Lane (which is more of a track than a lane, really). Follow the track up and along the ridge, where you should be able to enjoy great views of Minehead and the sea to the right.  If you fancy a little detour, a path leading downhill to the right will take you to Blindman’s Well, a natural spring that bubbles up and starts a stream down towards Minehead. Retrace your steps back to the main path.

Continue along the ridge, where you’ll soon be getting views out of Exmoor to the left. At Holes Corner, near an entrance to forestry commission land, a signpost points south to Croydon Hill, west north west to Selworthy and back to Grabbist Hill. Continue in the direction of Selworthy.

At the next crossways (Minehead right, Timberscombe left) continue straight ahead. As you climb higher (and if the sun’s out) you can see across the Bristol Channel to Wales.  Cross another path continuing straight ahead along the ridge until you reach a path signposted left to Wootton Courteney. Follow the path downhill until it divides into footpath (left) and bridle path (right). Both lead down to the village, but the bridle path, which winds down through woodland, gives some lovely glimpses of Dunkery Beacon. At the foot of the hill the path comes out to a road beside a large signboard for Dunkery Beacon Hotel. Turn left into Wootton Courteney, following the road down beside All Saints church.

Continue along the road, past Rainscombe Farm. At Wootton Lodge take the tiny road leading left and slightly uphill. Keep on the same road, which eventually leads back to the the end of Knowle Lane just outside Dunster.

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