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Oxford

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Oxford means so many things to so many people in the UK - for some it might be the beauty of the dreaming spires, for others it might be the Inspector Morse theme tune. For me, it’s the memory of my careers advisor sniggering as I filled in my UCAS form. But however you view this amazing city, there’s no doubt that it’s one of the best places in Britain to escape to for a weekend. After all, coach-loads of Americans can’t be wrong... Luckily, there is so much more to Oxford than a trip on the busy open-top tour bus. Hidden, tranquil corners, romantic riverside walks and one of the best arts and music scenes in the country are as good a reason to come here as the jaw-dropping architecture, and almost infinite historical significance. And don’t dismiss the University students as just Pimms-swilling, punting, policeman’s-hat-stealing swots - they’ve helped nurture a really vibrant and varied nightlife in the city. Perfect for letting your hair down once the coach-loads of Americans have driven off into the sunset.

What to see?

It’s difficult to ignore the beauty of Oxford’s University - its colleges, museums, galleries and theatres pretty much are Oxford. And why would you want to, anyway? Wander the cobbled streets and you’ll unearth many of the University’s most beautiful colleges as you go - many have quite unassuming entrances, but a peak through will open up a world of stunning gardens, quads and beautiful architecture. One of the best has to be Magdalen College (at the east end of the High Street, close to the river), founded in 1458, and dominated by its medieval bell tower. Magdalen’s 15th-century cloistered quad is dramatic to say the least - gargoyles line it on all sides, while the college grounds also include a deer park and lovely river-side meadows, which are perfect for a dawdle. Most of the colleges are open to the public out of term time, but many have year-round visiting times at the weekend. Check at the Tourist Information Office (or at www.visitoxford.org) for more details. For a taste of Oxford academia, the city’s galleries and museums are definitely worth a visit. Modern Art Oxford (www.modernartoxford.org.uk Tel: 01865 722733) is a fantastic place to start - the largest gallery devoted to modern and contemporary art in the South East has a world-class collection of paintings, sculptures and installations, that clash deliciously with the ancient architecture outside. For a more traditional slice of Oxford art, the world famous Ashmolean (www.museumofoxford.org.uk Tel: 01865 252761) offers a quirky look at the history of this amazing city and the plethora of famous names attached to it.

For an all-round view of the city, tours are plentiful to say the least. You could opt for the traditional open-top bus, or the umbrella-following walking tour, or you could plump for something a bit different. The Inspector Morse Tour will show you the city through the eyes of its most famous detective, while you can also embark on a Harry Potter tour (many of the Potter films’ locations are in the city) or a Philip Pullman Tour (all at www.visitoxford.org Tel: 01865 252200). And then there’s the obligatory Ghost Tour (although this one’s rather good - www.ghosttrail.org Tel: 0794 104 1811), led by the top-hatted Bill Spectre. Do-it-yourself options are available for the less socially-inclined. One of the best can be downloaded to your MP3 player, log on to www.tourist-tracks.com for more details. Or you could just climb the 99 steps up Carfax Tower, right in the centre of the city, for a bird’s-eye view of the dreaming spires all in one go.

If all this information has given you brain-ache, head for the river - everyone else does. The river is the Thames, but is known as the Isis in Oxford (obviously...). It’s a bustling place to be in high summer, but walk along the river out of the city and you’ll soon find a tranquil spot to escape to. Of course, the Isis is home to some of the most famous rowers in the world, and the Oxford University teams can often be found training on the river during term time. If you want to get out on the water yourself, it’s unadvisable to hitch a ride - try the venerable art of punting instead. Magdalen Bridge Boathouse (www.oxfordpunting.co.uk Tel: 01865 202 643) hires out punts (with a bit of very basic training for beginners), or you could opt for the chauffered option if getting stuck just isn’t an option. For longer trips on the Isis, board one of Salter’s Steamers’ boats (www.salterssteamers.co.uk Tel: 01865 243421) for a cruise towards pretty Abingdon, passing through some gorgeous countryside on the way.

Or why not try?

The Pitt Rivers museum www.prm.ox.ac.uk Tel: 01865 270927

The Oxford Playhouse www.oxfordplayhouse.com Tel: 01865 305305

Around and about

While the city of Oxford is hardly an exhausting metropolis, travel out of it for a few miles and you can enjoy some of the most beautiful countryside and loveliest places to visit England has to offer. Eight miles north is the gorgeous village of Woodstock, home to the jaw-dropping Blenheim Palace (www.blenheimpalace.com Tel: 01993 811091). Set in 2100 acres of Capability Brown-designed gardens and parkland, the amazing birthplace of Winston Churchill is certainly big and deserving enough for a good day’s wandering. Of course, the Cotswolds are right on the hotel’s doorstep, with the gorgeous town of Burford - the self-styled ‘Gateway to the Cotswolds’ - just a half an hour drive from Oxford city centre. Once a popular Georgian stop-off between Oxford and the West Country, is the perfect base for exploring the Cotswolds. Its magnificent high street, flanked by honey-coloured buildings built in Cotswold stone, sweeps down to a medieval bridge crossing the River Windrush, and tourists-in-the-know flock to enjoy its unspoilt character and inevitable plethora of antique shops. It’s a bona fide potterer’s paradise.

But it’s the countryside that’s really the star, and while the miles and miles of rolling hills, country lanes and picturebook villages that are the Cotswolds are within eay striking distance, walkers in Burford can get their fix of fresh air without even touching the ignition. A gorgeous, 4-mile walk through the Windrush Valley, taking in ancient burial grounds, Norman manor houses and tiny villages, starts and ends in town (log on to www.oxfordshirecotswolds.org for a full map and directions). If you don’t mind exploring on four wheels (or two), this area - the biggest Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty in England - is your oyster. For loads more Cotswolds walks, things to see and places to eat, read The Weekenders Guide to the Cotswolds.

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