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The North York Moors

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Into the wild

If city life has put a dampener on things romantically-speaking, head north and soak up the wilds of the North York Moors. Think wide, open vistas, crashing waves against the rocks, windswept villages... or maybe just pubs with crackling fires, local ales and homemade pies. Could there be anything more romantic?

The North York Moors National Park is one of the most stunning landscapes in the UK, and one of the most dramatic. With over five hundred and fifty square miles of moorland, woodland, coastline and valleys, and some of Yorkshire’s loveliest villages and market towns dotted in between, the Moors will give even the most jaded heart a bit of a jump-start.

What to see?

Where to start? Well, the National Park’s market towns are the best jumping off points for exploring the surrounding countryside and lovely places to potter around in themselves. Helmsley, at the south end of the Moors, is one of the most picturesque towns in Yorkshire. A historic market town, with winding streets lined with Yorkshire stone and half-timbered buildings, tearooms and pubs, it even has its own romantically tumbledown medieval castle. Helmsley is also fast turning into a bit of a foodie mecca (don’t miss the town’s Castlegate Bakery for great pies and tarts), so even more reason to pass through. Or stay. For days. Close to Helmsley are the haunting remains of Rievaulx Abbey and the beautiful baroque architecture of Duncombe Park, both idyllic spots to while away an afternoon.

Twelve miles east of Helmsley is Pickering, officially just outside the National Park but still considered a gateway to the moors. This bustling, historic market town is a must-visit if only to jump aboard the North York Moors Railway, one of the best, and most romantic, steam train routes in the country. The fleet of trains run from Pickering to Whitby, through some stunning moorland landscapes and stopping at four historic rural stations along the way. It’s once-on-a-lifetime stuff, particularly if you manage to bag yourself a table in the dining car (book well ahead for this one).

If you’d rather breathe in fresh air than engine smoke, then you’re in the right place. The moors are criss-crossed with stunning walking trails, bicycle routes and countless opportunities to enjoy outdoor adventures. England’s longest footpath walk, The Cleveland Way, starts at the market cross in Helmsley and carries on for 109 miles, taking in breathtaking York Moor scenery and the dramatic coastline en-route. The whole trail might be a little ambitious in a weekend, but it’s easy to pick up and leave the signposted path for shorter bursts. Cyclists will be in their element in one of the best bike terrains in the UK. The Moor to Sea cycle trail offers miles of traffic-free cycling, while you can also follow the coastal trail between Scarborough and Whitby along a disused railway or enjoy thrilling mountain biking in Dalby and Guisborough forests. Horse lovers can indulge themselves with miles and miles of Dobbin-friendly countryside (try the Boltby Pony Trekking Centre for accompanied treks ), while those less effort-inclined can enjoy peaceful glider flights with spectacular views across the whole park thanks to the Yorkshire Gliding Club in Thirsk.

While the moors and dales of the National Park are glorious, the North Yorkshire coastline is just as stunning and should not be missed. The history, bustle and legendary fish n’ chips in Whitby - famous both as the childhood home of Captain Cook and the spot where Count Dracula landed on his whistlestop of the UK – are definitely worth a visit. A visit to Whitby Abbey, particulary when the sun is having an off day, is still an eery affair, with the spooky ruins sitting above the grey North Sea crashing below. Dracula fans might like the ever-so-slightly tacky Dracula Museum down by the marina, but far more fun are the Whitby Goth Weekends which take place twice a year (usually once at Halloween, naturally). Hundreds of black-glad Goths from all over the world descend on the town to parade in their finery, listen to Goth music and celebrate all things Dracula. The locals and the dark ones get on famously and a jolly time is had by all. Well, jolly in a Goth way.

Alternatively, the miles of windswept beach at Sandsend are a prime example of the drama and romance of this bit of the English coast that stirs the soul. Those in the know head for Staithes, a pretty fishing village ten miles up-coast from Whitby. Artists and photographers flock to capture the cottages sloping down to the harbour, the bubbling beck, the beach and the towering Cowbar cliffs. Visit in summer for pastel colours and bobbing fishing boats, or in the depths of winter for crashing waves and pints and chips by pub firesides.

Or why not try?

The World of James Herriot

Herriot's famous practice in Thirsk has been carefully restored to its 1940s original decor, giving a fascinating insight into the life of North Yorkshire's most famous vet'nary.


Robin Hoods Bay

One of the prettiest coastal villages on the Moors coastline, Robin Hoods Bay is perhaps most famous for being the end point on the Coast-to-Coast long distance walk. Enjoy a pint and watch dozens of knackered walkers throw their boots into the sea!

Around and about

The North York Moors are prime walking country and there are hundreds of routes, paths, trails and signs to follow. For an excellent introduction to hardy Moor walking, however, this hike up Roseberry Topping is a belter. The distinctive hill, sticking up from the moorland like an enormous shark’s fin, offers breathtaking views from the top (320m above sea level) and is also a great spot for seeing some of the National Park’s huge variety of wildlife. The walk starts at the village of Great Ayton, the childhood home of Captain Cook and takes in Captain Cook’s Monument ,an impressive obelisk looking out towards the sea. It’s a bit of a climb, but definitely worth the effort.


Length of walk: 7 miles Effort: Not too bad, but with some steep bits. The walk should take around three hours. Picnic spots: You can’t beat the top of Roseberry Topping for a windswept picnic with a difference. Refreshments: The Royal Oak, Great Ayton


From Great Ayton, head east along Newton Road, pass the tourist information office and take the first public footpath on the right. Cross over the railway line and enter Cliff Ridge Wood. Keep following the footpath east as it climbs upwards through the wood. Cross the stile and turn right. As you approach Roseberry Topping, the path is well used and made up of stone flag and steps, making the climb a little easier. Once you reach the top, take a deep breath and take it all in.

Once you’ve done with the views, head east to start going down. Follow the public bridleway east, following a boundary wall and wood on your right. At the junction of routes, take the public footpath and continue to head south, following the wall and wood on your right until you enter Gribdale Gate car park. Leave the car park and head south – the climb is steep but worth it – towards Captain Cook's monument. More views. Great. Leaving the monument, head north westerly, taking care as the descent is steep and the path leads you through an area of timber workings. On reaching the earth track, head south until you meet a wooden signpost and gate, go through the gate and take a sharp turn to your right onto the public footpath which descends steeply and leads you to a gap in the wall. Pass through Little Ayton Wood and Low Plantation before crossing the stile and turning immediately left towards the railway crossing.

Cross the railway and head towards the wooden signpost, turn right and follow the track towards Woodhouse Farm. Follow the direction signs leading you through and around the farm (or the farmer will get you!) before joining a short section of road to meet the River Leven to your left and continue to the road junction. At the junction, turn left for a short distance and take the first public footpath on your right, heading north to a way-marked post and continue to the corner of the field, pass through the kissing gate to the next gate and following the well-used path. Pass by the playing fields on your left, and you will reach another kissing gate. The river is on your right. Follow the path and pass through a further gate to emerge by the weir and continue to the High Street.

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