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Calcot Manor - Tetbury, Gloucestershire

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Total luxury in the heart of the Cotswolds

We arrived at Calcot Manor in the middle of a thunderstorm. Driving rain and a really, really disgusting cold wind meant that we weren’t in the mood to get out of the car, let alone be amazed by this converted farm just outside the Cotswold town of Tetbury. But we’re easily pleased – it just took the small touch of a big barrel of huge umbrellas in the car park to bring out a beaming sun from behind the clouds and lots of bluebirds to frolic around our heads (in our wind-addled imaginations at least).

Calcot Manor is a fantastic place – a former country farmhouse surrounded by stables and out-buildings dating back to the 14th century, it’s been transformed into a super-luxurious, yet super-friendly spa retreat. It’s independently-run, so forget that big chain monotony, and has remained so true to its historic architecture, that you’d never know these beautiful stone buildings were one of the most talked-about country hotels in the UK. Hundreds of acres of land mean you’re surrounded by gorgeous Cotswold countryside, even before you’ve stepped out of the gates to explore.

Still damp, we took the tour. Calcot has 35 bedrooms and suites dotted all over the place – twelve are in the main manor (perfect for romantic spa-ing partners… get it?), while the rest are either in the converted out-buildings overlooking a pretty courtyard or, in the case of the huge family suites (almost beautiful enough to get the old biological clock ticking), in a separate terrace of very cute stone cottages. All of the rooms are individually furnished, with massive comfy beds, stylish décor and fantastic en-suite bathrooms. A heap of little luxuries will make you feel special, while period features keep the romance of the rooms safe from the curse of other, more sterile, spa hotels.

Good food is obviously important when you’re cold, wet and physically sick thinking about the amount of wine gums you’ve been scoffing en-route, so Calcot’s restaurant was in for a particularly picky inspection. Luckily, the Conservatory Restaurant (for it is in one) is great. Very light (we were assured, under the apocalypse-like weather circumstances), fresh and airy, it’s chic and yet very approachable for the fine dining section in a classy hotel. The menus are vibrantly British, with a touch of the Italian, and the spa facilities (and the need to wear a swimsuit) are far enough away to make eating the fantastic puddings a necessity, rather than a dilemma.

But it was Calcot’s other eating place that really caught us out – walk through an unassuming door at the end of the light and contemporary entrace hall, and you’re in a full-blown, fire-lit, wood-everywhere country pub - it’s proper Mr Benn stuff. The Gumstool Inn is perfect for rain-soaked travellers to get cosy and post-spa guests to relax even more, with comfy chairs, a roaring fire and a menu of way-above-average gastropub grub. And for those days when the sun deigns to grace you with its presence, a pretty terrace is great for al-fresco summer evenings.

Calcot Manor is pretty much the perfect country retreat, even without its award-winning spa. But you’d be a bit of a berk to stay here and not take advantage of the spa’s beautiful 16m pool and never-ending list of treatments on offer – including lots of man-friendly options and a great package for stressed-out mums to be. The piece de resistance, thought, has to be the outside courtyard, with its steaming spa pool and huge, covered log fire. Even as the rain kept chucking down and the December wind insisted on blowing a hoolie out there, we’ve never seen anything quite so inviting.

One more thing about Calcot (if you’re child-free don’t panic, and if you’re full of the things then don’t die from excitement) – it’s really, really family friendly. And we’re not just talking a half-hearted collection of high chairs or an only-use-if-really-necessary baby monitor. Big family rooms and those huge suites mean that you can bring your little ones and have a romantic break at the same time. Calcot’s Disney-land of a crèche, staffed by trained nannies, and great space for older kids (complete with cinema and banks of computer game systems) were enough to get our jaws dropping, let alone the people they’re actually aimed at. The nannies can babysit in your room too, while you escape for the evening, and there are even early dinner sittings so you can let the little angels kick up a stink to their hearts’ content, without worrying about the tutting singleton on the next table. Meanwhile, romantic couples looking for some peace and quiet needn’t worry – the spa and the main house (most of the time) are your sanctuary, and anyway the 220 acres of land belonging to Calcot is more than enough to accommodate a few smaller people, even if they will insist on exploring those 220 acres with their pants off.

Where is it?

Calcot Manor is just a few minutes’ drive outside gorgeous Tetbury. This stunning market town, sitting at the southern end of the Cotswolds, is as pretty a town as any in the north end of the area, with a sweeping main street flanked by gorgeous shops, houses and historic curiosities in local stone, all built around the town’s regal, 17th century market hall. The lovely Chipping Steps and picturesque Gumstool Hill (used for Tetbury’s annual woolsack races in May – a brilliant time to visit and see this 17th century tradition. Check out www.tetburywoolsack.co.uk for details of this year’s event) are the stuff of old ladies’ postcards. It really is a potterer’s paradise, with delis, cafes and specialist boutiques-a-plenty, while the town is famous for its huge collection of antiques shops. From armour to clocks to ancient Asian artifacts – if it’s old, you can buy it in Tetbury. For the most diverse selection, pop into one of the Top Banana Antique malls (www.topbananaantiques.com Tel: 0871 2881102), home to an enthusiastic collective of experienced antiques experts who sell everything from top hats to tallboys.

Tetbury is also famous for its royal connections – Prince Charles lives in ‘the Tetbury suburbs’ at Highgrove, while Princess Anne pops by for sugar from her home at Gatcombe Park, 4 miles away. Each owning acres and acres of land, it’s Highgrove that has become a mecca for organic farming, and is the centre of the organic Duchy Original empire (www.duchyoriginals.com). You’ll be able to stock up on all your Duchy Original oat biscuits, jams, showers gels and, most importantly, tangerine thins (a bit of a Weekenders addiction) at the brand-new Duchy Original shop, due to open in Tetbury in March 2008.

Once you’ve scoffed and shopped your way through Tetbury, the stunning countryside that surrounds it is your oyster. The gorgeous Cotswolds are on your doorstep – miles and miles of rolling hills, country lanes, impossibly perfect villages and some of the best pubs in Britain. The 103-mile Cotswolds Way that passes by Tetbury might be a bit much for a weekend stroll, but there are plenty of great walking and cycling opportunities in and around the town. Particularly lovely is the 10-mile walk from Tetbury to the famous National Arboretum at Westonbirt (www.forestry.gov.uk/westonbirt Tel: 01666 880220), one of the most spectacular tree collections in the world, passing right by Highgrove (www.walkingbritain.co.uk, walk 1337). For more information on this lovely area, read The Weekenders Guide to the Cotswolds.

Where can I eat?

The Conservatory and Gumstool Inn at Calcot Manor really are no-brainers of an eating option. Not only is the food fantastic, but there’s nothing better than eating an amazing meal and downing a bottle (or two) of vino, safe in the knowledge that your bed - and in Calcot’s case, your outdoor spa pool – are within staggering distance.

But if you’re after an alternative, there are plenty of other great foodie spots in the area. The newly-opened Chef’s Table (www.thechefstable.co.uk Tel: 01666 504466) in Tetbury is a deli-cum-fishmonger’s-cum-bistro, with a paradise of fine and fresh foods for sale downstairs and a dining room upstairs serving an amazing lunch menu. Simple, rustic, French dishes are a speciality – yum. For a great dinner option, The Priory Inn (www.theprioryinn.co.uk Tel: 01666 502251) offers a mouthwatering menu of British dishes, with a Mediterranean twist, made from a wealth of amazing local produce. The mains are super, but the puddings are to die for. If you’d rather venture out deep into the Cotswolds countryside for a meal, The Bell at Sapperton (www.foodatthebell.co.uk Tel: 01285 760298), 9 miles from Tetbury. This cosy and popular little gastropub, in a idyllically rural location, offers a sophisticated, but friendly menu of British dishes, and its list of great, local suppliers is never-ending.

Picnic lovers will be in their element in Tetbury, with foodie havens such as The Chef’s Table, multi award-winning and Rick Stein favourite Hobbs House Bakery (www.hobbshousebakery.co.uk Tel: 01454 321 629) and famous House of Cheese (www.houseofcheese.co.uk Tel: 01666 502865) all selling great hamper fodder. Tetbury even has its own Food & Drink Festival in September (www.tetburyfoodfestival.co.uk)

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Chic, luxurious and very, very special - Calcot Manor is as cosy as you would expect from a Cotswolds hotel, but with a five-star twist.