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Combe House - Gittisham

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Rural retreat that's off the romantic richter scale

Combe House is, quite simply, stunning. An ivy-covered Elizabethan manor house sitting in its own 3,600 acres of lush, rolling Devonshire countryside, with beautiful Arabian horses frolicking close by and one of the UK’s most picturesque villages at the end of the driveway - it’s a romantic rural retreat that you certainly won’t forget in a hurry.

Step inside the huge oak front doors and we can pretty much guarantee you’ll never want to leave. While five-star luxury is never far away, it’s the cosiness of Combe House that envelops you - stunning 17th-century grandeur is tempered by roaring log fires, fresh flowers, armchairs that scream ‘curl up on me now!’ and smiley, friendly staff. The gorgeous views out of the huge, leaded windows are ever-present, lending an impossibly tranquil, middle-of-nowhere feel to the whole thing.

Upstairs, just fifteen bedrooms add to the relaxed intimacy of this family-home-cum-luxury-hotel. Each is individually furnished and all are eminently un-leavable. From the sumptuous master bedrooms and suites, with their huge beds, antique furnishings, historic portraits and panoramic views over the grounds and the countryside beyond, to the romantic, comfy-cosy doubles situated in what were once the servants’ quarters and offering views over the colourful gardens, all of the rooms are beautiful. An impressive mix of original period features and contemporary decor, including some amazing murals in some rooms, means that everything is kept light and airy - perfect for snoozy lie-ins.

For the ultimate in romantic weekends, book the newly-refurbished Linen Suite (formerly the house laundry!). Cool, contemporary, New England-style colours have been used to create a luxurious haven, with a huge sitting room, sumptuous and chic bedroom and - star attraction - the most amazing bathroom we’ve ever seen. An enormous, round, copper bath-tub - big enough for 6 - sits amidst stylish white wood panelling and underneath an equally enormous showerhead. It’s jaw-dropping. Or, you could book Combe Cottage - a tiny thatched hideaway in Combe House’ woods, that will make you and your other half feel like Hansel and Gretel (albeit Hansel and Gretel in luxurious, fluffy bathrobes. And not related). The romantic richter scale almost explodes with this one.

Back at the house and the loveliness continues with the delicious and vibrant restaurant. Start your meal with an aperitif in the lovely gardens, then enjoy amazing British-led menus made with loads of great Devonshire ingredients. The restaurant has been named as a Michelin Rising Star - a Michelin star winner of the future - and young head chef Hadleigh Barrett is, unsurprisingly, a bit of a local culinary hero. But all you really need to know is that you are guaranteed an unforgettable eating experience at Combe House, and all within stumbling distance of your lovely, squidgy bed.

Where is it?

Once you’ve arrived at Combe House it might seem impossible that you’d ever want to leave. In fact, and with acres of beautiful gardens, parkland and woods to discover, it’s perfectly possible, and extremely pleasurable, to stay within the house’ boundaries for at least a weekend. If your feet do start itching though, then Combe House is perfectly located for some prime West Country exploring.

At the eastern end of South Devon, close to the border with Dorset, Combe House sits a mile from the picture-postcard village of Gittisham - just seven miles from the sea. Gittisham itself is an ancient jumble of pretty thatched cottages, a bustling village shop and a bubbling river that passes through. It’s a lovely place to be, and at just a mile from Combe House (along its winding driveway), the perfect target for a leisurely stroll.

The busy market town of Honiton is 4 miles from the hotel and a good place for a potter. Once a centre for lace-making, this Devon gateway town is now a bustling tourist centre, with a thriving reputation for antiques and a growing foodie scene. Visit the fantastic Champers Delicatessen (Tel: 01404 42589) for a huge range of local and West Country cheeses, meats and lots of other goodies. Plus yummy chocolate truffles made in the shop.

Four miles in the other direction from Gittisham is the birthplace of local hero Samuel Taylor Coleridge - Ottery St Mary, another great place for an aimless potter (oh, and talking of potters, it’s also the inspiration for Ottery St Catchpole - the home of the Weasleys in the Harry Potter books...). The picture-book 14th-century fairytale church with its astronomical clocks and the strange, circular ‘tumbling weir’ are definitely worth a look, but it’s the sudden burst of festivities around Guy Fawkes night that have boosted Ottery in the ‘strange things British people get up to’ stakes. Around the 5th November every year, the town celebrates with its famous Ottery St Mary Carnival ( www.otterytarbarrels.co.uk). On the Saturday before the 5th, an impressive procession of tableaux rolls through the town’s streets, followed by a fantastic fireworks display. Then, on the 5th itself, the Ottery townspeople take part in the centuries-old tradition of carrying Flaming Tar Barrels (literally, barrels on fire - it’s enough to push a health & safety expert to tears) to the enormous bonfire that’s been steadily growing in the weeks leading up to the event. It all has to be seen to be believed.

A little further afield, but at 15 miles, still within easy reach, is the historic city of Exeter. Once a city considered equal to Bath in its beauty, the city suffered heavy bombing during World War II and is now a mish-mash of the ancient and the new, but still a great place to explore. The ‘old’ Exeter is championed by its lovely cathedral ( www.exeter-cathedral.org.uk Tel: 01392 285983), an intricate gothic building, completed in 1400. Its dramatic vaulted ceiling (said to be the longest in England), beautiful interior detailing and nightly evensong make it a great place to escape to. The cathedral sits in the lovely Cathedral Close, with its very lounge-able green, cobbled street and higgledy-piggledy historic buildings, including the wonky, Elizabethan Mol’s Coffee House, favoured by Sir Francis Drake and Sir Walter Raleigh and the impressive Royal Clarence Hotel. Elsewhere the city centre verges on the generic, although little pockets such as Gandy Street - home to lots of independent shops - the pretty Northenhay Gardens and tiny Parliament Street - apparently the narrowest street in Britain - are real gems. Exeter’s status as a vibrant university city also means that sources of entertainment are coming out of its ears, and you’ll have no problem finding a play, a gig, an exhibition or a concert to fill your culture quota. The lively Phoenix Arts Centre ( www.exeterphoenix.org.uk Tel: 01392 667080) is a great place to start for all sorts of music and theatre. Alternatively, the brilliant Northcott Theatre ( www.exeternorthcott.co.uk Tel: 01392 493 493), part of the university, has its own highly-acclaimed rep company, hosts touring operas and puts on stunning, outdoor Shakespeare productions in the summer.

Away from Exeter’s main city centre - about a 10-minute walk - is its lovingly-redeveloped historic Quayside. On the banks of the River Exe and Ship Canal, old dock buildings have been transformed into a vibrant spot to shop, eat and drink, complete with a Slow Food Market (on the third Saturday in the month throughout the summer) and free music performances. The Quayside is also a brilliant base for exploring the river. Walk the two-and-a-half miles to the lovely, waterside Double Locks Inn (www.doublelocks.co.uk Tel: 01392 256 947) for an outstanding list of ales. Or hire a bike or even a canoe from Saddles & Paddles (www.saddlepaddle.co.uk Tel:01392 424241) and head sea-ward to the gorgeous little town of Topsham and onwards to the lovely Exe Estuary and Exmouth.

However, one of Combe House’ most wonderful attractions is its closeness to the sea, and a lovely stretch of sea it is too. The dramatic Jurassic Coastline, which starts at the bustling seaside resort at Exmouth, is within easy reach, and there are plenty of long sandy beaches to enjoy close by. Lovely Budleigh Salterton, birthplace of Sir Walter Raleigh and a favourite spot for refined Brits seeking sea air, is 14 miles from Gittisham, and a beautiful place for a wander amongst antiques shops and tearooms, followed by a brisk stroll along the seashore. Proper walking fans will be in their element, with the South West Coast Path offering some great routes in the area. For maps and detailed routes, log on to www.southwestcoastpath.com .

For a really traditional trip to the seaside, travel just 7 miles from Combe House to Sidmouth and its picturesque Regency esplanade, red, rocky cliffs and long, pebbly beach. Catch a boat from the beach www.stuartlinecruises.co.uk Tel: 01395 222144 to see Sidmouth and the remarkable Jurassic Coastline in all their glory (and what’s left of the stuck MSC Napoli). In the summer, buy some fish and chips and install yourself in the town’s Connaught Gardens to enjoy a performance by the Sidmouth brass band. Oompah-tastic.

But it’s the pretty fishing village of Beer, 9 miles from Come House, that is the best place for a romantic visit to the sea. Once a hotspot for smugglers, the sheltered bay at Beer is home to one of the loveliest (but steepest) little beaches in Devon. It’s also where you can find the famous Beer Quarry Caves (www.beerquarrycaves.fsnet.co.uk Tel: 01297 680282), a vast underground network of man-made caves created by quarry workers from as far back as Roman times. The stone from Beer has been used in countless famous British buildings, including Exeter cathedral. The two-mile cliff-top walk from Beer westwards towards Branscombe is fantastic, and will more than satisfy any cravings for fresh air. End a round trip at the cosy Anchor Inn (www.anchorinn-beer.com Tel: 01297 203 86) for some great local fish and chips and a pint of real ale.

Where can I eat?

Not only is the restaurant at Combe House one of the best in Devon, but eating there will also mean never having to leave this little oasis of loveliness. Nevertheless, if you do fancy eating out, there are plenty of lovely places to try nearby.

The Holt (www.theholt-honiton.com Tel: 01404 47707) in Honiton is a vibrant gastropub headed up by prolific head chef Angus McCaig. A whole host of local suppliers provide produce for the restaurant’s mainly British menus, with deliciously unpretentious main dishes and a lovingly-chosen wine list to match. On the other side of Honiton, in the little village of Wilmington, 6 miles from Combe House, the restaurant at Home Farm (www.thatchedhotel.co.uk Tel: 01404 831278) is a local favourite and a lovely spot for a romantic evening meal. Brit dishes made from local and seasonal produce are served in a cosy dining room, with puddings to die for.

For the real Devon country pub experience, the lovely Drewe Arms (Tel: 01404 841267) in pretty Broadhembury, 7 miles from Gittisham, is a wonderfully cosy inn that serves amazing food, including fantastic local fish and seafood dishes. While, for a real taste of the sea, visit Neil’s (www.neilsrestaurant.com Tel: 01395 519494) in Sidmouth, a relaxed and vibrant seafood restaurant that serves dishes that change daily according to what the trawlers have brought in that morning.

Top of page

Combe House is, quite simply, stunning. An ivy-covered Elizabethan manor house sitting in its own 3,600 acres of lush, rolling Devonshire countryside, with beautiful Arabian horses frolicking close by and one of the UK’s most picturesque villages at the end of the driveway - it’s a romantic rural retreat that you certainly won’t forget in a hurry.