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Fingals - Dittisham

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A charming country retreat with a difference

It’s impossible to pigeon-hole beautiful Fingals, but we have a feeling that was always the intention. Too comfy and homely to be a hotel, yet never giving into that treading-on-peoples’-toes feeling that some B&Bs exude; too relaxed to be a stuffy country retreat, yet with all the luxury you’d expect from one; and equally idyllic for those needing activity and those who just want to do nothing - Fingals really is anything you want it to be.

Sitting a mile outside the lovely village of Dittisham, on the edge of the River Dart, this renovated Devon farmhouse is a proper retreat - not only is it surrounded by the rolling, green countryside of the South Hams, but its lawns and gardens are a rural idyll in themselves. Created by owner Richard Johnston as an antidote to impersonal luxury hotels, the feeling of relaxed conviviality hits you before you’ve even reached the front door. A croquet lawn, tennis court, beautiful conservatory (home to a swimming pool and a jungle of exotic plants and flowers) and endless opportunities to just ‘be’ make up Fingals’ grounds, while comfy garden furniture pretty much screams at you to “sit on me and don’t move for a weekend!”.

Inside, big windows, cosy country-house styling and handsome wood-pannelling makes for airy rural chic, with a snug and friendly bar, sunny breakfast room, library, games room and even a home cinema on hand to keep you entertained. Richard has transferred his culinary expertise from his successful restaurant in Fulham to his Devon retreat, with a fresh and vibrant dinner menu, served on one long table in the stunning, pannelled dining room. Local and seasonal ingredients take centre-stage, while the charm of Fingals and its surroundings makes for a natural topic of conversation.

Scattered around the house are ten en-suite bedrooms - all individually decorated yet all equally as special. The standard rooms are anything but - with gorgeous antique beds, chic decor and views across the gardens and the countryside beyond. Other rooms have antique four-posters or interconnecting options for families, while the best room in the place has to be the bedroom in Fingals’ folly - a romantic bolthole with double doors opening onto a little stream outside, and its own airy sitting room upstairs - truly blissful. There’s even a two-bedroomed converted barn as a luxurious self-catering option.

See what we mean? Fingals really is an exception to every rule.

Where is it?

Lovely, lovely Dittisham - one of the prettiest villages in Devon - sits about 3 miles upriver from the River Dart estuary at Dartmouth. It’s the perfect place to get shot of urban anxieties, whether it be with a stroll through the village, a pint in the cosy 18th-century Red Lion Inn or water-side Ferry Boat Inn, or a trip out onto the river. The Anchorstone Cafe (Tel: 01803 722 365) hires out small sailing boats and rowing boats, from £15 an hour. For an exciting day’s adventure, take your boat upstream to Tuckenhay and The Maltster’s Arms (www.tuckenhay.com Tel: 01803 732350) - a great pub with mouthwatering menus (quay-side BBQs in the summer), real ales and absolutely stunning views. If DIY boating isn’t your bag, catch the Greenway Ferry (www.greenwayferry.co.uk Tel: 01803 844 010) from Dittisham to Dartmouth.

On the other side of the Dart from Dittisham is Greenway Quay and Greenway, the stunning home of Agatha Christie (www.nationaltrust.org.uk Tel: 01803 842382). The famously romantic gardens that surround the house are wonderful, with clouds of Magnolia, far-reaching views along the Dart valley and a great cafe to boot. The wider estate is a great place for walkers, with links to the 16-mile Dart Valley Trail. The section of the trail from Greenway to Dartmouth is easily do-able at 4 and a half miles, and you can get the ferry back to Dittisham at the end. Log on to www.southdevonaonb.org.uk for full instructions and a map.

Whether you arrive by foot, by car or by boat, you can’t miss a visit to Dartmouth - a bustling country town with a beautiful backdrop to die for. From its colourful moorings, full of clanking masts, and its narrow, winding streets full of one-off shops, cafes, delis and galleries, to its romantic, woodland-fringed castle and famous Royal Naval College, Dartmouth is a weekender’s paradise. It’s also a town that never stops to take a breath - there’s always something going on. Whether it’s the huge Dartmouth Regatta in August (www.dartmouthregatta.co.uk), complete with jaz-dropping air displays, the Dartmouth Comedy Festival in February (www.theflavel.org.uk) or the brilliant Dartmouth Music Festival in May (www.dartmouthmusicfestival.co.uk), you’re bound to find something to float your boat. Literally.

Where can I eat?

If you can’t bear the thought of leaving Fingals all weekend - and it is a possibility - the wonderful dinner menus are perfect. Simple, but elegant dishes made with the freshest local ingredients, and all served up in Fingals’ distinctly Austen-esque dining room.

If you are looking for alternatives, however, there are loads of great places to eat around and about. Dartmouth is a great place to start. The bright and stylish Jan and Freddies Brasserie (www.janandfreddiesbrasserie.co.uk Tel: 01803 832 491) is in the heart of town and serves fantastically fresh and vibrant, award-winning food. Anzacs (www.anzacstreetbistro.co.uk Tel: 01803 835 515) is also an excellent option, with a simple, but elegant menu made with great local produce. For something a bit different, board The Picnic Boat (www.thepicnicboat.co.uk Tel: 01803 752625), a lovely little ferry that will take you on a cruise up-river, before you partake in some of the best al-fresco dining you’ll come across. Whether you opt for a Westcountry Luxury Picnic, a Seafood Picnic, or a Devon Cream Tea, the food is fantastic and the Dart scenery even better. Romantics can even book the boat for an idyllic private cruise.

Upstream from Dittisham is the lovely town of Totnes, and even more great eating options. The fantastic Effings (www.effings.co.uk Tel: 01803 863435) is a deli-cum-cafe - perfect for a great lunch or for picnic provisions. Otherwise, venture out to the amazing medieval Dartington Hall Estate and The White Hart (www.dartingtonhall.com Tel: 01803 847100) nestled in the maze of 14th century buildings. Stylish and way-above-average pub grub is made with ingredients provided by a whole list of local producers.

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It’s impossible to pigeon-hole beautiful Fingals, but we have a feeling that was always the intention - too comfy and homely to be a hotel, yet with the luxury and idyllic surroundings that you'd expect from the best five-star country retreat.