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Granton House - Goodrich

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Cosy countryside B&B

The beautiful Wye Valley is often ignored by urbanites wanting a weekend away from it all, which is a crying shame. After all, its rolling hills, craggy gorges and cliffs offer total escape, its winding river with occasional rapids and the chance for adventure is one of the most picturesque in the country and the market towns and villages that sit in the valley are as charming and explorable as any in the Yorkshire Dales. And all of this can be found less than 3 hours from London (even less from Manchester and Birmingham).

If the beauty of the Wye and the Welsh borders does tickle your fancy, the beautiful Granton House is a great place to base yourself. A 17th-century country house, deep in secluded countryside and with stunning views of the valley and Coppet Hill, it’s one of the new breed of British B&Bs that will keep you warm and cosy, while never make you feel like you’re treading on anyone’s toes. Perfect. Three luxury doubles – one with an extra single bed if you have an argument mid-stay(!) – have gorgeous antique beds, plus loads of other period features that’ll bring you out all Austen-esque. All the rooms have those uninterrupted views, but for the best sense of rural retreat, The Garden Room has to be the best. Built as an extension to the main house in Burmese Teak, this romantic room has windows on three sides, a separate seating area and the loveliest bathroom – also with a breathtaking panorama through its huge window.

The gardens at Granton House are there to be wandered, with a lovely patio offering ample opportunity to take tea and bask in the sunshine during the summer. Breakfast is delicious – home-made muesli, jams, bread and lots of fresh local produce. No wonder this has been named one of the best B&Bs in the country.

Where is it?

Granton House sits just outside the pretty village of Goodrich, home to the romantic medieval ruins of Goodrich Castle (www.english-heritage.org.uk Tel: 01600 890538). Sitting on a dramatic ridge overlooking the River Wye, Goodrich was just one of the many fortifications that became a vital part of keeping the Welsh and the English separated. Unfortunately, nothing, not even mighty Goodrich, was strong enough to stop Tom Jones and his leather pants conquering the knicker-throwing English masses.

Two miles from Granton House is the dramatic Symonds Yat rock, towering above the River Wye. Not only does it offer great views of the valley, but it’s one of the best spots to view Peregrine Falcons in the UK, usually between April and August. The little village beneath it, meanwhile, is the best place to hire canoes to explore the Wye and its exciting bends and not-too-scary rapids. The Wyedean Canoe and Adventure Centre (www.wyedean.co.uk Tel: 01594 833238) offers hire, tuition and a guide if you need one. Land-lubbers are well-catered for too, with miles and miles of trails making for fab walking territory. The Wye Valley walk, from source to mouth, (all 136 miles of it) might be a bit much for a weekend stroll, but there are plenty of shorter, circular routes to follow. Cyclists will also think they’ve died and gone to heaven, with the stunning 30-mile Wye Valley Ride offering an almost perfect day on two wheels. A full route map can be downloaded from www.herefordshire.gov.uk. Bikes can be hired from Pedalaway (www.zen95973.zen.co.uk Tel: 01989 770357) in Llangarron, 4 miles from Granton House.

If all that countryside makes you wheezy, the market town of Ross-on-Wye, 4 miles from Goodrich, is a great place to potter amongst people. Set high on a sandstone cliff overlooking the river, the higgledy-piggledy streets of historic timbered and stone buildings are now home to small shops, café, galleries and antiques emporiums. A must-visit is Grandma Peggy’s (www.grandmapeggys.co.uk Tel: 01989 764 264), an amazing old-fashioned sweet shop, with rows and rows of sweets in jars, Art Deco fixtures and fittings, 1940s music and staff in 1940s dress. Just make sure you brush your teeth afterwards…

Where can I eat?

Ross-on-Wye is home to several good restaurants, one of the best being The Mulberry at Wilton Court (www.wiltoncourthotel.com Tel: 01989 562 569) – a stylish hotel on the banks of the river. Fabulous British dishes made almost entirely with local produce change with the seasons, but are always accompanied by puddings to die for and an eminently explorable wine list. For something a little more rustic, but equally fantastic, The Lough Pool Inn (www.loughpool.co.uk Tel: 01989 730236) in Sellack, a ten minute drive from Goodrich, is an uber-popular country pub that’s worth the drive. In pretty Herefordshire countryside (perfect for a post or pre-lunch walk), its simple, but vibrant menus have made The Lough Pool a real local favourite.

A bit further afield, but definitely worth the journey is The Bell at Skenfrith (www.skenfrith.co.uk Tel: 01600 750235), about 15 minutes’ drive from Goodrich. A local culinary hero, the award-winning restaurant at The Bell offers simple British dishes that allow the amazing local ingredients to speak for themselves. Even the majority of the veggies, herbs and salads are all organically grown in The Bell’s very own kitchen garden.

If you’re into a bit of picnicking, you can’t go wrong with Truffles Delicatessen (www.wyenot.com/truffles Tel: 01989 762336) in Ross-on-Wye, an amazing deli that sells everything from cheeses to medieval mead. Ask about their huge range of local produce if you really want to get down with the Herefordshire homies.

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If the beauty of the Wye and the Welsh borders tickles your fancy, the beautiful, 17th-century, Granton House B&B is a great place to base yourself.