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Heasley House - North Molton

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Boutique luxury in the heart of Exmoor

A white, Georgian country house sitting in the tiny hamlet of Heasley Mill, with rolling Exmoor countryside on all sides, gorgeous Heasley House is as far from city life as you’re likely to get - you can almost smell the green-ness. But this is no primitive rustic outpost. Step inside and enjoy lush, contemporary decor mixed with a big dollop of rural charm and a whole lot of luxurious touches for a comfy weekend away to rival any urban bolthole - with stunning views and all the fresh air you can handle thrown in for good measure.

As cosy and relaxing as a country home-from-home, Heasley House’s airy decor is as perfect for a summer visit as it is for a winter hideaway, when the crackling log fires and squishy sofas come into their own. The hotel’s eight en-suite bedrooms are just as welcoming - all individually designed, they boast the comfiest beds, crispest Egyptian bed linen, period features and loveliest views you could hope for. Huge baths, power showers, CD players, fantastic toiletries and other little luxuries are the icing on the cake.

The little restaurant at Heasley House is spot-on (which is lucky, as once you’re entrenched for the weekend, you might not want to leave...), and the food really is one of the hotel’s star attractions. The Brit-led menu, lovingly produced with the best local ingredients, is elegantly unpretentious, with fantastic puddings and a great wine list to top it all off. In fact, chef Paul (who owns Heasley House with his wife Jan) is fast becoming a bit of a local gastronomic hero. It’s no surprise, then, that breakfasts in this stunning boutique-y bolthole are the stuff of legend. Fantastic.

Where is it?

Lovely little Heasley Mill nestles at the south end, and the Devon side, of Exmoor National Park, about 14 miles east of Barnstaple. With the 267 square miles of Exmoor - a stunning mixture of dramatic moorland, rolling greenery and crashing coastline - right on its doorstep, it’s unsurprisingly heaven on earth for anyone who enjoys the great outdoors. Walks are mind-bogglingly plentiful, with the famous 180-mile Tarka Trail passing close by - log on to the brilliant www.walkingbritain.co.uk for some of the best. For a lovely 3-miler, follow the pretty River Mole from nearby North Molton (an old mining village) to the market town of South Molton. Have lunch (or tea - their toasted crumpets, scones and apple pie are amazing) at the brilliant Corn Dolly Tea Shop (Tel: 01769 574249) on East Street, before walking back.

If walking on its own doesn’t float your boat, Exmoor is also a playground for all things equine - the National Park is home to the famously hardy Exmoor ponies, plus lots of great Riding Stables. Lower Dean Riding Stables ( www.deanridingstables.co.uk Tel: 01598 763565), 15 miles from Heasley Mill, is a good place to start. An afternoon’s hack is the ideal way to enjoy the countryside made famous in RD Blackmore’s romantic classic, Lorna Doone (a book which, incidently, couldn’t be a better choice for curling up with back at the hotel).

If miles of walking (or riding) really isn’t your thing (or maybe you weren’t quite as fit as your unused Holmes Place membership card led you to believe...), there’s plenty of fantastic places to visit by car. Sixteen miles from Heasley Mill are the twin coastal villages of Lynton and Lynmouth, joined by the quirky, water-powered Lynton and Lynmouth Cliff Railway ( www.cliffrailwaylynton.co.uk Tel: 01598 753486). Lynmouth, at the bottom of the gorge created by the two Lynmouth rivers, is dwarfed by the dramatic backdrop where Exmoor meets the sea. It’s a very pretty place, despite a glut of tourists in the summer, and has a shingle beach that’s great for surfers, baskers and paddlers alike. Further east along the coast is the romantic medieval village of Dunster. With over 200 listed buildings, the village is remarkably well-protected from the scourge of mass-tourism and is a potterer’s paradise. Pretty boutiques, galleries, antique shops and cafes line the main street, that has stayed pretty much unchanged for centuries. But it’s hard to miss Dunster’s main attraction - the fairy tale Dunster Castle ( www.nationaltrust.org.uk Tel: 01643 823004), which sits on a wooded hill overlooking the village and has views and gardens to die for. For the full romantic experience, walk from the castle to Dunster’s West Somerset Railway station ( www.west-somerset-railway.co.uk Tel: 01643 704996) and board a steam train. The trains stop at the long and sandy Blue Anchor Beach just a mile or so from Dunster and the lovely little harbour town of Watchet, before travelling inland, past the Quantock Hills, towards Taunton.

If it’s full-on beach action you’re after, the pretty village of Croyde and its 800m of golden, sheltered beach is only a 40-minute drive from Heasley House. Known by many surfers as 'The Place of Legends', it’s one of the UK’s most popular surfing destinations. If you fancy having a go, Surf South West ( www.surfsouthwest.co.uk Tel: 01271 890400) offer classes, from 2-hour introductions to full weekend courses.

Where can I eat?

The restaurant at Heasley House really is a no-brainer of an eating option. Not only is the food fantastic - the best for miles around - but there’s nothing better than eating an amazing meal and a bottle (or two) of vino, safe in the knowledge that your bed is within stumbling distance.

If you are looking for an alternative, there are some lovely places to eat within reach, but you’ll have to resort to the car. Two restaurants, both 20 miles from Heasley House, are certainly a bit of a trek, but are worth the effort. The first is Andrews on the Weir ( www.andrewsontheweir.co.uk Tel: 01643 863 300), a gorgeous, award-winning restaurant right on the water at Porlock Weir. Simple, but mouthwatering, dishes, including fresh fish landed at the harbour outside are served in a beautiful dining room overlooking the pretty harbour outside. The other is 11 The Quay ( www.11thequay.co.uk Tel: 01271 868090) in the seaside resort of Ilfracombe. With financial backing and some great art on the walls from Damian Hirst, this is a restaurant with style that stands out in this very traditional, Victorian town. The delicious menus are just as stylish - all vibrant flavours and beautiful presentation - while the views of the crashing Atlantic and the cliffs diving into the sea are amazing.

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Lush, contemporary decor mixed with a big dollop of rural charm and a whole lot of luxurious touches make for a comfy weekend away to rival any urban bolthole - with stunning views and all the fresh air you can handle thrown in for good measure.