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Larkbeare Grange - Ottery St Mary

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Comfy countryside b&b

It seems that lovely Larkbeare Grange has been put on this earth to show that you don’t need a wallet-busting five-star hotel to feel thoroughly looked after. A gorgeous Georgian country house, deep in the midst of rolling, peaceful Devon countryside, Larkbeare is the perfect place to escape the city, sit back and smell the roses for a weekend. And owners Charlie and Julia Hutchings have made sure that you feel jolly special while you’re at it.

The house’ light and airy en-suite bedrooms, with big beds, period features, sash windows (boasting stunning countryside views) and simple, stylish decor are comfy-cosy, with crisp Egyptian cotton bed linen and squidgy goose down duvets just the icing on the cake. Bathrooms are warm and classy, with double-ended baths, walk-in power showers, fluffy bathrobes and fab toiletries. If you needed proof that the British b&b has come along way since scratchy towels, UHT milk and 10pm curfews, this place has it in spades.

In the morning, delicious breakfasts, using lots of local and home-made produce and yummy aga-baked bread are served in Larkbeare Grange’s elegant dining room. Then it’s outside to enjoy the house’ own 8-acre rural idyll and the miles and miles of unspoilt, green-ness beyond.

Where is it?

Larkbeare Grange sits in Devon’s picturesque Otter Valley, four miles from the historic little town of Ottery St Mary, nine miles from the cathedral city of Exeter and just 10 miles from the lovely South Devon coastline.

The nearest village, a mile and a half away, is pretty Talaton, with its lovely 15th century church, cosy Talaton Inn and some of the most passionate villagers in the UK. The fantastic village shop is run by committee and staffed by a rota of volunteers, the annual panto is a sight to behold, and Talaton’s Village Day (the first Saturday in June) is a riot of bunting, brass bands and hay bales. It’s all very Midsomer Murders (without the murders, obviously). Even closer to Larkbeare is Escot ( www.escot-devon.co.uk Tel: 01404 822188) - a beautiful stately home set in 1200 acres of landscaped gardens, lovely parkland and lush, Devon countryside.

The birthplace of local hero Samuel Taylor Coleridge, the town of Ottery St Mary is a great place for an aimless potter (oh, and talking of potters, it’s also the inspiration for Ottery St Catchpole - the home of the Weasleys in the Harry Potter books...). The picture-book 14th-century fairytale church with its astronomical clocks and the strange, circular ‘tumbling weir’ are definitely worth a look, but it’s the sudden burst of festivities around Guy Fawkes night that have boosted Ottery in the ‘strange things British people get up to’ stakes. Around the 5th November every year, the town celebrates with its famous Ottery St Mary Carnival ( www.otterytarbarrels.co.uk). On the Saturday before the 5th, an impressive procession of tableaux rolls through the town’s streets, followed by a fantastic fireworks display. Then, on the 5th itself, the Ottery townspeople take part in the centuries-old tradition of carrying Flaming Tar Barrels (literally, barrels on fire - it’s enough to push a health & safety expert to tears) to the enormous bonfire that’s been steadily growing in the weeks leading up to the event. It all has to be seen to be believed.

A little further afield, but still within spitting distance of Larkbeare Grange, is historic Exeter. Once a city considered equal to Bath in its beauty, the city suffered heavy bombing during World War II and is now a mish-mash of the ancient and the new - which is no bad thing. The ‘old’ Exeter is championed by its lovely cathedral ( www.exeter-cathedral.org.uk Tel: 01392 285983), an intricate gothic building, completed in 1400. Its dramatic vaulted ceiling (said to be the longest in England), beautiful interior detailing and nightly evensong make it a great place to escape to. The cathedral sits in the lovely Cathedral Close, with its very lounge-able green, cobbled street and higgledy-piggledy historic buildings, including the wonky, Elizabethan Mol’s Coffee House, favoured by Sir Francis Drake and Sir Walter Raleigh and the impressive Royal Clarence Hotel. Elsewhere the city centre verges on the generic, although little pockets such as Gandy Street - home to lots of independent shops - the pretty Northenhay Gardens and tiny Parliament Street - apparently the narrowest street in Britain - are real gems. Exeter’s status as a vibrant university city also means that sources of entertainment are coming out of its ears, and you’ll have no problem finding a play, a gig, an exhibition or a concert to fill your culture quota. The lively Phoenix Arts Centre ( www.exeterphoenix.org.uk Tel: 01392 667080) is a great place to start for all sorts of music and theatre. Alternatively, the brilliant Northcott Theatre ( www.exeternorthcott.co.uk Tel: 01392 493 493), part of the university, has its own highly-acclaimed rep company, hosts touring operas and puts on stunning, outdoor Shakespeare productions in the summer.

Away from Exeter’s main city centre - about a 10-minute walk - is its lovingly-redeveloped historic Quayside. On the banks of the River Exe and Ship Canal, old dock buildings have been transformed into a vibrant spot to shop, eat and drink, complete with a Slow Food Market (on the third Saturday in the month throughout the summer) and free music performances. The Quayside is also a brilliant base for exploring the river. Walk the two-and-a-half miles to the lovely, waterside Double Locks Inn (www.doublelocks.co.uk Tel: 01392 256 947) for an outstanding list of ales. Or hire a bike or even a canoe from Saddles & Paddles (www.saddlepaddle.co.uk Tel:01392 424241) and head sea-ward to the gorgeous little town of Topsham and onwards to the lovely Exe Estuary.

Seaside fans will love Larkbeare Grange’s location. The dramatic Jurassic Coastline, which starts at the bustling seaside resort at Exmouth, is within easy reach, and there are plenty of long sandy beaches to enjoy close by. Lovely Budleigh Salterton, birthplace of Sir Walter Raleigh and a favourite spot for refined Brits seeking sea air, is 12 miles from Talaton, and a beautiful place for a potter amongst antiques shops and tearooms, followed by a brisk stroll along the seashore. Proper walking fans will be in their element, with the South West Coast Path offering some great routes in the area. For maps and detailed routes, log on to www.southwestcoastpath.com .

Finally, for a really traditional trip to the seaside, travel 10 miles from Larkbeare Grange to Sidmouth and its picturesque Regency esplanade, red, rocky cliffs and long, pebbly beach. Catch a boat from the beach www.stuartlinecruises.co.uk Tel: 01395 222144 to see Sidmouth and the remarkable Jurassic Coastline in all their glory (and what’s left of the stuck MSC Napoli). In the summer, buy some fish and chips and install yourself in the town’s Connaught Gardens to enjoy a performance by the Sidmouth brass band. Oompah-tastic.

Where can I eat?

The Talaton Inn (Tel: 01404 822214) is a great place for some good pub grub and a pint or two, and it’s a lovely walk away from Larkbeare Grange. But for somewhere really special, venture the four miles to the village of Rockbeare and The Jack in The Green (www.jackinthegreen.uk.com Tel: 01404 822240), an award-winning whitewashed country inn-cum-stylish bar and restaurant that’s widely considered one of the best places to eat in Devon. Young head chef, Matthew Mason, has created mouthwatering, but unpretentious, menus that use only the best in local, seasonal and home-grown ingredients. The restaurant menu is beautiful, but the bar menu is equally as outstanding - pub grub classics given a delicious kick up the backside.

For a good choice of places to eat, Exeter is a good bet. Local culinary superhero Michael Caines has taken the restaurant at the Abode Hotel (www.abodehotels.co.uk Tel: 01392 319955) under his wing. Formerly the historic Royal Clarence Hotel, the building’s glorious location on the city’s Cathedral Close equals the restaurant’s stunning fine dining menus. If you’d rather somewhere a little less fancy, The Cat in The Hat (www.cathat.co.uk Tel: 01392 211700) is a light and airy bistro that offers a great-value set menu of delicious Brit dishes and fab puddings.

For a taste of the sea, visit Neil’s (www.neilsrestaurant.com Tel: 01395 519494) in Sidmouth, a relaxed and vibrant seafood restaurant that serves dishes that change daily according to what the trawlers have brought in that morning.

But if it’s a really special evening you’re after, visit gorgeous Combe House ( www.thishotel.co.uk Tel: 01404 540 400), 6 miles from Larkbeare Grange - this beautiful country house hotel and its award-winning restaurant is stunning. Start your meal with an aperitif in the lovely gardens, then enjoy amazing British-led menus made with loads of great Devonshire ingredients. The restaurant has recently been awarded a Michelin Rising Star award, singling it out as a strong contender for a Michelin Star in the future. Go now before everyone else does!

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A gorgeous Georgian country house, deep in the midst of rolling, peaceful Devon countryside, Larkbeare is the perfect place to escape the city, sit back and smell the roses for a weekend.