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Llety Bodfor - Aberdyfi, Gwynedd

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Welsh Seaside Idyll

If you thought that the idyllic seaside holiday was something that Britain just didn’t do anymore, then think again. The unspoilt village-turned-quiet-holiday-resort of Aberdyfi on the stunning mid-Wales coast is everything you could want from a seaside retreat. If any of you are familiar with eighties classic, Cockleshell Bay (we can’t be the only ones...!), then you’ll know exactly what we mean.

And in the heart of this seagull-wheeling, fishing fleet toting, sand-dune-lined little town is Llety Bodfor, a pastel-coloured, Victorian town house right on the sea front. Step inside this beautifully revamped, boutique b&b and the sea air and views outside are never far behind. Big, airy bedrooms with views out across the Dyfi Estuary and Cardigan Bay are super-relaxing, helped by the gorgeous designer interiors and luxurious special touches. Big, squashy beds, leather sofas, flat screen tellies and quirky touches, such as twinkling chandeliers are sumptuous (and if you like the decor enough, you can buy it - most of Llety Bodfor’s furnishings and fittings are available from designer and owner, Ann Hughes’ shop). The en-suite bathrooms are no less lovely, with roll-top baths, fluffy towels and great White Company toiletries.

Downstairs, the big, open-plan lounge, bar and breakfast area screams relaxation, with art on the walls, cosy sofas and plenty of opportunities to just, well, sit and do very little. Llety Bodfor’s tremendous breakfasts are served here - complete with local specialities such as leek and laverbread tart, Pant ys Gawn goat cheese, and Anglesey smoked salmon. Bliss.

Where is it?

Aberdyfi (or Aberdovey if you’re after the English version) sits on the estuary of the River Dyfi in Gwynedd, on stunning Cardigan Bay - all within the Snowdonia National Park. Looking at a map, it’s just above mid-way on the West Welsh coast. Originally a small centre for ship-building, it was discovered by those terribly pro-active Victorians on their quest for sea air, and became a popular resort - the multi-coloured Victorian townhouses on the promenade are their legacy. Today, Aberdyfi is a classy little place that’s escaped the tacky curse of the seaside that other, perhaps more easily accessible, resorts have encountered.

The big draw has to be Aberdyfi’s gorgeous location. The town starts at the seafront, but winds its way up towards the rolling green hills behind. The views across the Bay towards the hills beyond are ever-present, with the waterfront boasting peacefully clanking boat moorings, rocky outcrops and a long, sandy beach lined with grassy sand dunes. For a relaxing weekend break, you couldn’t do much better.

But for anyone wanting a bit of activity, Aberdyfi certainly doesn’t disappoint - it’s no coincidence that the town was home to the first ever Outward Bound Centre in the 1940s. The stunning Aberdovey Championship Golf Course (www.aberdoveygolf.co.uk Tel: 01654 767493) is an 18-hole links course, with far-reaching views out to sea. It’s generally regarded as one of the most beautiful courses in the UK. Otherwise, you could try one of the many watersports based in town. Sailing, windsurfing, surfing and canoeing are all big in the area - Aberdovey Sailing (Tel: 01654 767301) offers short sailing courses - while for a real, wet adrenalin rush, you could try your hand at kite surfing at Kite Surf Wales (www.kitesurfwales.co.uk Tel: 01654 791342). For on-land heart-pumping, you need look no further than local company Adrenalin Antics (www.adrenalinantics.com Tel: 01654 767655), who specialise in all things climbing, jumping, abseiling and generally slightly adventurous. For the full adrenalin monty, try their three-hour Big Canyon Adventure.

If all that sounds a bit too much like hard work, a boat trip out into the bay could be just the thing. Dyfi Discoveries (www.dyfidiscoveries.co.uk Tel: 01654 767676) provides wildlife boat trips, spotting dolphins, seals and even turtles. Or you could venture inland on the famous Talyllyn Narrow Gauge Railway (www.talyllyn.co.uk), which puffs its way from Tywyn, on the coast four miles north of Aberdyfi, through stunning countryside to Nant Gwernol - a forest station only accessible by foot (or the train). From here it’s easy to find a lovely walk, perhaps taking the trail to the crashing Dolgoch Falls, where you can catch the train back to Tywyn.

Of course, for serious walkers, only the nearby peaks of Snowdonia National Park will do. The nearest peak walk is just 12 miles from Aberdyfi, running from Llanfihangel y Pennant over the not-too-imposing Tyrrau Mawr towards Ty Nant. For details of this and other walks in Snowdonia, including walking up the Big One, log on to the National Park website (www.eryri-npa.co.uk).

Where can I eat?

For freshly-caught fish and way-above-average pub grub, The Penhelig Arms (www.penheligarms.com Tel: 01654 767215) is perfect. This stylish watering hole has a comfy-cosy bar to enjoy a pint or two, and a light and airy restaurant that serves up vibrant lunch and dinner menus. Lots of local ingredients, including a plethora of delicious fish, make for the best eating option in town.

For an evening meal to warm the cockles, the very cost Bistro on the Square (Tel: 01654 767448), a few minutes’ walk from Llety Bodfor, serves up a deliciously comforting menu. Local ingredients, a friendly wine list and a deserved local loyalty makes this a popular and welcoming place to spend an evening. And if cosy and welcoming is your bag, then you can’t do much better than The Dovey Inn (www.doveyinn.com Tel: 01654 767332), Aberdyfi’s favourite watering hole.

Further afield is the gorgeous Ynyshir Hall Hotel (www.ynyshirhall.co.uk Tel: 01654 781209), a fifteen minute drive from Llety Bodfor. Once owned by Queen Victoria and set amongst 14 acres of breathtaking scenery, this beautiful country house has an award-winning fine dining restaurant, with views out across the grounds. Head Chef, Shane Hughes, has created a menu of British classics, given a continental twist, and using loads of fantastic local and seasonal ingredients. 

Or you could try The Wynnstay (www.wynnstay-hotel.com Tel: 01654 702941), also a short drive away, and a local foodie mecca. An amazing mix of Italian, French, English and Welsh dishes are lovingly-prepared by a kitchen team that span the globe. Freshly-caught fish, local beef and lamb and some of the best pizzas in existence, make The Wynnstay an unmissable place to eat.

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Step inside this beautifully revamped, boutique b&b and the sea air and views outside are never far behind.