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Rookery Nook - Shere

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Comfy, cosy B&B

Lovely little Rookery Nook in lovely little Shere is as close to English village perfection as you’re likely to get. In fact, when the producers of the Jude Law / Kate Winslet romcom, The Holiday, were looking for a twinkly little place to enchant American audiences, it was Shere that fitted the bill. Rookery Nook B&B is one of the oldest houses in the largely half-timbered, picture postcard heart of the village.

Chris and Jill Capstick have turned part of their cosy, ivy-covered 15th century cottage into two luxury B&B bedrooms - brilliant for a tranquil, rural weekend getaway less than an hour from London. Downs View is a big, romantic room with a vaulted ceiling, antique bed and beautiful views over the village towards the North Downs, while the bright and airy Garden View has views over... well, the garden. Great breakfasts are served in the downstairs dining room, where beams and wonky floors maintain the cosy, romantic atmosphere of a secret hideaway.

Where is it?

The ancient village of Shere sits in the heart of the rolling Surrey Hills, at the edge of the North Downs - it’s almost impossible to believe that it’s just 30 miles from London. The little river Tillingbourne flows through the village, home to an army of ducks, the village square has a great pub, a bakery, a tea room and antique shops, while the 12th century village church (used as a film location in Bridget Jones - The Edge of Reason) presides over proceedings.

Walkers and cyclists will be in their element, with loads of great trails and paths beginning and ending at the village. While the 153-mile North Downs Way and the 120-mile Pilgrims Way that both pass by Shere are probably a bit of a stretch for a weekend amble, there are plenty of shorter routes to follow. A section of The Pilgrims Way heads from Shere up to St Martha-on-the-Hill church, probably one of the loveliest located churches in England, with stunning views across the Downs. Alternatively, ventrue 11 miles from Shere to famous Box Hill a 172m-high local landmark, with acres of woodland and downland to enjoy, plus miles and miles of paths and trails (including the famous stepping stones over the River Mole). A popular and historic day-trip destination for claustrophobic Londoners, it’s been heavily featured in books and on film - most famously in Jane Austen’s Emma and in the 1996 film version of the book - and the views from the top are stunning. If bikes are more your bag, this is good mountain biking terrain. Head For The Hills (www.head-for-the-hills.co.uk Tel: 01306 885007) in nearby Dorking hires out top-quality bikes, along with all the accessories and local maps you’ll need.


You could, of course, take a stroll to the famous Silent Pool, just outside Shere. It’s a lovely spot, with a small lake that is fed from a spring at the north end. The water is crystal clear, which has been filtered through the local chalk hills. The pool has an eeriness about it and a legend attached. It’s said that a young maiden was bathing in the Silent Pool one day when the young King John on his horse came upon her. Whilst trying to defend her modesty she sought refuge in a deeper part of the pond, became tangled in the weed and drowned. Legend says the young maiden still visits Silent Pool on the same day each year. She is seen to disrobe and descend into the pond before a cantering of hooves is heard, followed by the futile splashing of water, which seals her fate yet again. Unsurprisingly, one of the lake’s most famous fans was Alfred Lord Tennyson.

If all that’s enough to drive you to drink, you could visit England’s largest vineyard, Denbie’s (www.denbiesvineyard.co.uk Tel: 01306 876616), 8 miles from Shere. Take a tour of the vines and winery, including an English wine tasting, and you may well be tempted to stock up for emergencies...

Where can I eat?

You can see Shere’s best venue for drinking and just ‘being’ from the windows at Rookery Nook. The White Horse (Tel: 01483 202518) is a handsome 15th century smugglers’ pub, with beams made from Nelson’s ship Victory and, of course, its own ghost. Real ales, a great wine list,a satisfying menu of pub grub classics and puddings, plus a pretty garden and views over the village are pretty much all you’ll ever need. For a slightly more elegant, but really delicious, meal in the heart of the village, Kinghams (www.kinghams-restaurant.co.uk Tel: 01483 202168) is perfect. A cosy, 17th century building offers a mouthwatering, British-led menu lovingly-compiled by experienced London chef Paul Baker. Kingham’s gorgeous cottage garden is a romantic spot for summertime al-fresco dining.

Five miles from Shere is the brilliant Stephan Langton Inn (www.stephan-langton.co.uk Tel: 01306 730775), a lovely 1930s country pub in the grounds of the tranquil Wotton Estate. Its snug bar area, or light and airy restaurant serve truly delicious, classic pub-grub during the day, and a mouthwatering dinner menu in the evening. Everything that can be is home-made, from the bread to the ice cream to the chutney, while fresh, local produce - some from the estate - makes up the rest of chef Simon Adams’ lovingly-put-together menu. The inn really is in the middle of lush countryside, so is perfectly located for pre or post-grub wanderings.

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Lovely little Rookery Nook B&B in lovely little Shere is as close to English village perfection as you’re likely to get.