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Spears Cross - Dunster

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A historic, but very cosy Somerset bolthole

As soon as you venture into the medieval village of Dunster, whether it be by car or by steam train (yes, really...), you’ll wonder how on earth it’s escaped the wrath of mass tourism. It’s right by the sea, has its own fairy-tale castle, a whole gaggle of beautiful and historic buildings, some lovely places to eat - and all within a thoroughly un-scary distance of London.

Stay at beautiful Spears Cross and the mystery deepens. This buttercup yellow, 15th century cottage has been turned into a cosy, very stylish and multi-award-winning 4-bedroomed boutique b&b, and all in the very heart of this hidden gem of a place. In fact, the gatehouse to Dunster Castle is right next door. The running theme at Spears Cross is history meets modern luxury, with low beams, wonky floorboards, pannelled walls, leaded windows and a huge inglenook fireplace all serving to keep things as cosy as they have been for centuries, while huge, super-king-size beds, goose down duvets, flat screen tellies and Bose stereos mean that you can revel in the delights of the 21st century at the same time. En-suite bathrooms are fresh and modern, with fluffy bathrobes and lots of lovely Penhaligons smellies. And if you’d really like to spread out for a weekend, the spacious Selworthy Suite has a cosy little living area too - perfect for curling up with a good book after a day at the seaside.

Owners Cliff and Tricia Nicholson have both come from a foodie/drinkie background, so it’s no wonder that breakfasts at Spears Cross are the stuff of legend. Amazing local eggs, meat, jams and honey are served with specially-made muesli and even bread made with flour ground at Dunster Mill. There is freshly-squeezed orange and grapefruit juices, a range of teas to satisfy any palate, or you could start the day with a glass of bubbly! It’s no wonder Cliff and Tricia have been awarded a coveted NFU ‘Taste of the West’ Gold Award for their breakfasts - one of only two in the whole of Somerset.

Where is it?

Idyllic Dunster sits about a mile from the sea on the lovely North Somerset coast and on the eastern edge of beautiful Exmoor. The winding high street and bustling market place are a treasure trove of historic buildings - with over 200 boasting Grade I or II listing - while towering over everything is Dunster’s extremely romantic castle (www.nationaltrust.org.uk Tel: 01643 823004), which sits on a wooded hill overlooking the village. Nothing remains of the original Saxon fortifications that stood on the hill, and its medieval replacement was totalled during the Civil War, but the castle’s current, mainly 19th-century, incarnation is extremely pleasing, with its fairytale turrets and towers. You can wander around the Jacobean and Victorian interiors, or spend hours in the stunning terraced gardens that surround the castle, with their amazing collection of sub-tropical plants, plus the national collection of strawberry trees and Britain’s oldest lemon tree. It doesn’t get much more exciting than that! If none of that appeals, then the views from the castle and grounds certainly will - far-reaching vistas of Dunster, Exmoor and the Bristol Channel. Gorgeous.

Back down in the village and there’s plenty of opportunities for a potter. The covered Yarn Market, built in around 1600 and boasting war wounds from the Civil War forms the village’s centre piece is worth a nose, while Dunster Water Mill (www.nationaltrust.org.uk Tel: 01643 821759) on Mill Lane is a lovely, tranquil place to sit and listen to the bubble of the river and the creaking of the restored 18th century water wheel. For another, even more exciting, blast from the past, walk the half a mile to Dunster’s West Somerset Railway station (www.west-somerset-railway.co.uk Tel: 01643 704996) and board a steam train. The trains stop at the long and sandy Blue Anchor Beach just a mile or so from Dunster and the lovely little harbour town of Watchet, before travelling inland, past the Quantock Hills, towards Taunton.

However civilised historic Dunster may appear, the wilds of Exmoor are never far away and it’s easy to venture into the heart of the National Park from the village. Within minutes by car, or even by foot, you’ll find yourself surrounded by some of the UK’s most dramatic countryside. 

Walking routes from Dunster and nearby are endless - both the 36-mile Coleridge Way and the Exmoor Ridgeway pass close by - and Cliff and Tricia are full of ideas on maps, directions and picnic spots (in fact they’ll even provide the picnic). However, one of the most obvious places to head for is Dunkery Beacon - just over 3 miles from Dunster - which, at 1,705 ft is the highest point in southern England, outside Dartmoor. Name-checked in the romantic Exmoor classic Lorna Doone by R.D. Blackmore (a book which, incidently, couldn’t be a better choice for curling up with back at the hotel), Dunkery Beacon offers stunning views on a clear day across Exmoor, Dartmoor, the Bristol Channel, the English Channel, the Brecon Beacons and even the Severn Bridge. In summer, the hill is blanketed in beautiful, purple heather. 

Other beautiful spots within easy reach include the very pretty Snowdrop Valley that lines part of the River Avill - visit in early Spring to see an amazing white carpet of snow drops at their spectacular best - and the forest-covered Grabbist Hill, which was apparently the inspiration for school-assembly-classic ‘All things bright and beautiful’. The vast, National Trust-owned Holnicote Estate (www.nationaltrust.org.uk Tel: 01643 862452) is also nearby, including over 100 miles of windy paths, some stunning Exmoor villages - little thatched Selworthy, 6 miles from Dunster, is unthinkably gorgeous - and 4 miles of spectacular Bristol Channel coastline. 



Exmoor is also home to the famously hardy Exmoor ponies, many of which still roam the moor (although these days, they’re all privately owned). The whole area is, unsurprisingly, perfect for equine adventures and there are several riding stables within easy reach of Dunster if you want to have a go. Exmoor Riding is in Porlock, a few miles outside from Dunster, is a good place to start.

Where can I eat?

Dunster is home to some lovely places to eat - certainly enough to keep you happy for a weekend - while there are even more if you don’t mind exploring a little. Reeves Restaurant (www.reevesrestaurantdunster.co.uk Tel: 01643 821414) in the village is a very cosy place, with a great menu of British and French dishes made with the freshest of local ingredients. Unsurprisingly, given Dunster’s coastal location, the seafood is especially great. The historic Luttrell Arms (www.luttrellarms.co.uk Tel: 01643 821555) is also a nice place to eat, with the choice of its smart restaurant and a la carte menu or friendly and very cosy bar area - both serving delicious food that’s popular with the very discerning locals. Especially good for Sunday lunches (probably a good idea to book ahead...).

For a gorgeous meal in even more gorgeous surroundings, drive the 12 miles to the lovely village of Luxborough and The Royal Oak Inn. Passionate head chef Tim Sandy’s menus are elegantly rustic - a mouthwatering and vibrant collection of British-led dishes, with a regularly-changing specials board making fantastic use of great seasonal and local ingredients. Oh, and the puddings and cheeses are to die for. Another great gastropub, is the Woods Bar & Dining Room (Tel: 01398 324007) in very pretty Dulverton, a very cosy and pleasingly bustling pub-restaurant 16 miles from Dunster . Winner of 2007’s Wine Pub of The Year, Woods is just as lauded for its hearty menu - made from the freshest local produce and cooked by Provencal chef Oliver Certan - a great mix of British and French bistro deliciousness.

If it’s the sea that inspires your taste buds, try The Cafe at Porlock Weir, a laid-back, award-winning eatery right on the water at Porlock Weir, 9 miles from Dunster. Simple, but mouthwatering, dishes are served in a beautiful dining room overlooking the pretty harbour outside, with freshly-caught fish the order of the day.

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This buttercup yellow, 15th century cottage has been turned into a cosy, very stylish and multi-award-winning 4-bedroomed boutique b&b