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Spire Cottage - Chichester

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A comfy-cosy country b&b

Ever stayed in a cathedral spire before? No, we didn’t think so. Well now you can at lovely Spire Cottage, a pretty-as-a-picture, grade II-listed b&b just outside Chichester. Ok, so it’s not actually a spire anymore, but the higgledy-piggledy stone that makes up the cottage walls was all taken from the old spire of Chichester Cathedral that collapsed in 1861. It’s a beautiful building and a super-cosy place to stay.

The four bedrooms at Spire Cottage are lovingly decorated in stylish, neutral colours, with simple, pretty furnishings and lots of little special touches. The four-poster bedroom is particularly special, with its huge, brass bed and great roll-top bath in the en-suite bathroom (“...where men can soak their chest and knees - at the same time!” exclaims owner Jan Howard). Some of the rooms boast stunning views across the Sussex countryside, while the pretty Garden Suite, in an adjoining annex, has its own private entrance.

Staying at Spire Cottage is nothing if not relaxing, and there’s never any sense of treading on anyone’s toes. Breakfast is fabulous and as close to village living as any city dweller could aspire to - sausages and bacon from the local butcher, free range eggs from the chickens down the road, freshly-squeezed orange juice and yummy, home-made jams and marmalades. Delicious.

Where is it?

Spire Cottage sits down a country lane in the small village of Hunston, 2 miles south of Chichester’s small, but perfectly formed, historic city centre. It’s a sleepy place, home to a pretty village church and a great, foodie pub. You’ll also find the impressive Chichester Golf Club (www.chichestergolf.com Tel: 01243 533833) just outside the village, with two 18-hole courses, one 9-hole and a driving range - all open to non-members on a pay-and-play basis.

The old Chichester Ship Canal passes right through the village, and joins Hunston to the city with a lovely jaunt along the tow-path. The new, intact spire of Chichester Cathedral (www.chichestercathedral.org.uk Tel: 01243 812482) dominates the skyline as the canal passes through open fields, and is the main attraction once you get into town. At nearly one thousand years old, the cathedral is a pretty impressive place, and great for a wander. It’s become especially well-known for its association with modern art, and there is a fascinating collection of twentieth-century paintings, sculptures, tapestries and stained-glass windows on show that blend seamlessly with the ancient interior. One of the most beautiful is a techni-coloured window by Marc Chagall.

The city’s passion for modern art continues at Pallant House Gallery (www.pallant.org.uk Tel: 01243 774557), a Queen Anne town house in the centre of the city. The Grade I-listed building has been extended to house one of the best collections of 20th-century British art in the UK, including works by Freud, Sickert, Hodgkin and Blake. Culture Vultures needn’t stop there, though as Chichester is also home to one of the best regional theatres in the country - Chichester Festival Theatre (www.cft.org.uk Tel: 01243 784437). During Festival season - from April to September each year, the Festival Theatre and its sister theatre, the Minerva, present some stunning productions of classic and new works, often featuring huge names in British acting. Outdoor performances and an impressive series of talks and Q&A sessions also feature throughout the Festival. Then during the autumn, the CFT plays host to touring productions from around the country.

Chichester is also world-famous for the big skies and huge expanse of Chichester Harbour - an unspoilt natural harbour and official Area of Outstanding Beauty - perfect for messing about on the water or simply walking its lovely coastline. The harbour is home to some very pretty spots on its shores, but one of the best is the lovely village of Bosham, 5 miles from Spire Cottage, which sits on a small peninsula at the eastern end of the harbour. It may be small in size, but it’s huge in historical terms - it was from Bosham Quay Meadow that King Harold sailed for Normandy in 1064 and both he and Bosham Church are depicted in the Bayeux Tapestry. Many believe that Harold is buried there. King Canute also had a palace at Bosham and famously attempted to turn back the tide, right at Bosham Quay. He failed and got wet.

The village, and especially the pub, are unsurprisingly popular with sailors, with hundred of moorings for boats and yachts off Bosham Quay. If you’re not part of the sailing set, but are itching to get out on the water, Itchenor Boat Hire (www.itchenorboathire.co.uk Tel: 01243 513345) in the neighbouring harbour-side village of, well, Itchenor (you can reach Itchenor by the little Bosham ferry from May to September), hires out little motor boats - the best way to explore the wildlife, beaches, villages and gorgeous vistas of the harbour. West Wittering (www.westwitteringbeach.co.uk), 9 miles by road from Bosham at the mouth of the harbour, is the best place for long, sandy beaches - perfect for swimming and picnicking, while the harbour-side Georgian town of Emsworth, 4 miles away by road, is great for restaurants and delis.

If hiring your own boat scares you to death, there are plenty of boat trips that’ll show you the best of the harbour from the water. Solar Heritage (www.conservancy.co.uk Tel: 01243 513275) is a solar-powered catamaran that leaves from itchenor and Emsworth and is a particularly good tour for pointing out the amazing wildife in the harbour. For something a bit different, the interestingly-named Terror (Tel: 01243 513275) is the last remaining oyster boat from the Emsworth fleet, that’s been restored and adapted for public sailings. You do need to book ahead.

If the harbour isn’t enough to keep you busy, there’s plenty more to see and do in this corner of West Sussex. Goodwood (www.goodwood.co.uk Tel: 01243 755000) is only 6 miles from Hunston - home to Goodwood Racecourse with race meets throughout the year, including ‘Glorious Goodwood’ at the end of July. It also plays host to the brilliant Goodwood Revival, held at the end of September - the world’s most popular historic motor race meeting. There are races around the classic Goodwood circuit, plus everyone dresses up and has a jolly good time. Book well ahead for tickets.

The stunning town of Arundel is another star attraction in these parts, and less only about twenty minutes’ drive from Spire Cottage. And Arundel’s star attraction? Well, you can see it for miles. Arundel Castle (www.arundelcastle.org Tel: 01903 882173) is the stuff of picture books, its turrets peeking out amongst the trees. Its foundations are Norman, but bits have been added, destroyed and renovated since then to give it its distinctive silhouette. Open to the public from March until October, the castle is still home to the (very lucky) Duke of Norfolk and his family. The 14th century Fitzalan Chapel, castle keep and stunning gardens are perfect for quick blast of history. The rest of the town is a potterer’s paradise, with little shops, delis and cafes lining Arundel’s sloping main street and narrow side alleys. The beautiful gothic cathedral (www.arundelcathedral.org) at the top of the hill almost matches the castle in grandeur, while the banks of River Arun is the ideal spot for some summer lounging about. Visit in late summer for brilliant Arundel Festival (www.arundelfestival.co.uk Tel: 0871 472 0414) - 4 days of top-flight concerts in the castle grounds. Picnics and Pimms obligatory.

Where can I eat?

Hunston’s pub, The Spotted Cow (www.spottedcowpub.co.uk Tel: 01243 786718) is fab - a comfy-cosy local that’s been given a bit of a make-over, which serves up delicious, way-above-average pub-grub. Lots of lovely local produce, including fish straight from the harbour, is used to make dishes that give new meaning to the term ‘comfort food’. The pub’s speciality is its Cow Pie - chunks of Steak cooked in Guinness, sprinkled with Stilton & topped with shortcrust pastry. Wow.

For something a bit different (but still strangely bovine-related), try The Cider House (www.theciderhouse.biz Tel: 01243 779345) in Appledram, a couple of miles from Spire Cottage. In a converted cow shed, right in the middle of a cider farm, this special little restaurant rustic to the extreme, but a great place for a romantic evening’s meal. British classics and a plethora of amazing fish and seafood dishes are lovingly made by chef Tony using local and seasonal ingredients (including fish caught that morning), while puddings to die for and a great wine list are the icing on the cake. Sit outside in the summer and enjoy fish served straight from the outdoor grill, accompanied by a pint of scrumpy from the farm.

Chichester centre is home to some really lovely places to eat, including The Dining Room at Purchases (www.thediningroom.biz Tel: 01243 537 352), a great restaurant in a stunning Georgian town house. With a buzzy, laid-back atmosphere and stylish, vibrant menu, The Dining Room serves delicious takes on British classics that verge on fine dining, but without any hint of being pretentious.

For real foodie fans, however, there is a bit of a gastronomic mecca right on Spire Cottage’s doorstep. The market town of Emsworth - fast becoming the culinary capital of the south - is just 12 miles away. Restaurant 36 on the Quay (www.36onthequay.co.uk Tel: 01243 375592) is a Michelin-starred local legend overlooking the harbour. Unsurprisingly, the food is fantastic - British-led dishes using the freshest local and seasonal produce (including lots of great seafood, naturally) are followed by jaw-dropping puddings and accompanied by a great wine list. Set menu prices mean that your choices won’t be governed by how much pocket money you’ve got to spend. For something a little more low-key in Emsworth, but equally delicious try Fat Olives (www.fatolives.co.uk Tel: 01243 377914). A really cosy and super-friendly up-scale brasserie, within spitting distance of the waterfront, Fat Olive’s menus have perfected the balance between sophistication and comfort food - a vibrant selection of British and continental dishes made with the freshest ingredients.

Real foodies should aim for Emsworth in September, when the Emsworth Food Festival (www.emsworthfoodfestival.co.uk) comes to town (the next is in 2009) - an amazing three-day extravanganza of tastes and smells. If you can’t wait that long, worry not - Emsworth Delicatessen (Tel: 01243 389181) is full of local and regional produce year-round. Perfect for picnics.

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The higgledy-piggledy stone that makes up Spire Cottage was all taken from the old spire of Chichester Cathedral that collapsed in 1861. It’s a beautiful building and a super-cosy place to stay.