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The Bath Arms - Longleat

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Quirky pub-with-rooms on the Longleat Estate

It’s no coincidence that some of the best places to stay are the ones that are hardest to write about. It’s not that the inspiration isn’t there - far from it - it’s just that it’s almost impossible to know where to start. Anyway, the truly one-of-a-kind Bath Arms in the little Wiltshire village of Horningsham, part of the inimitable Marquess of Bath’s Longleat Estate, is a particularly good example. So here goes...

This beautiful, ivy-clad country inn looks like your typically English rural retreat from the outside. At the end of a windy lane, in a pretty little village, surrounded by lovely countryside and with plenty of opportunities for tranquil, al-fresco drinking, the outside is the epitomé of a middle-of-nowhere rustic pub-with-rooms. Step through the front door, under the Bath Arms lamplight, and it’s another world. Ok, so period features are in abundance - elegant fireplaces, wooden floors, beams - but so are colourful fabrics, quirky and eclectic bits of furniture and a gallery of vibrant artwork on the walls. Whether it’s the subconscious influence of the decidedly non-conformist Marquess, the talents of renowned interior designer Miv Watts or the friendly, smiley atmosphere, one thing is for certain - this is no ordinary local.

Helped by the fact, that The Bath Arms sits just a few minutes’ walk from the lions and tigers and bears (oh my!) at Longleat’s famous Safari Park, the wild side of this part of Wiltshire is certainly alive and well in The Bath Arms’ fifteen en-suite bedrooms. With the best in the main house, but with some pretty special rooms in a next-door building aswell, the rooms are a destination in themselves. Each individually designed by Watts, you can choose from Indian influences, over-the-top French chic, colourful Chinoiserie, peacocks, British colonialism, a rather saucy Karma Sutra room, the list goes on... The bathrooms are no less eccentric, with murals, collages, statues and some great roll-top baths on offer. In amongst all this excitement, comfort is never forgotten, and comfy beds, crisp bed linen, DVD players, flat screen tellies and lush, Apothecary toiletries are on hand to make you feel pampered. If all that wasn’t enough, it’s been rumoured that it’s possible to hear the Longleat lions roaring as you drift off to sleep. Now that’s wild.

Downstairs, the inn is divided into two - the drinking bar, where the lucky locals and relaxed guests mingle to enjoy a great range of ales from local breweries, deep, squidgy sofas and the company of The Bath Arms’ canine contingent. The dining section of the bar is just as laid-back, but plush to say the least. Drapes, chandeliers and candelabras create a decadent atmosphere in which to fill up on some fantastic, simple and vibrant British dishes, all made from local ingredients - many from the Estate.

And that’s not all (I’m on a roll now!). There’s a retro skittles alley, a sumptuous and very cool attic room for some chic chilling and even a spa treatment room, offering a full range of indulgent therapies.

Ok, I think that’s about it for The Bath Arms, now for the rest of the Longleat Estate...

Where is it?

The thousands of acres that make up the beautiful Longleat Estate (www.longleat.co.uk Tel: 01985 844400) include woodland, farmland and 900 acres of stunning parkland landscaped by Capability Brown. In the middle of all of this is Longleat itself - a jaw-dropping country house that is one of the most spectacular examples of Elizabethan architecture in the UK and just a few minutes’ walk along a pretty short-cut from The Bath Arms. Home to the ever-so-slightly eccentric 7th Marquess of Bath, the house is open to the public, with great tours of the amazing interiors, artwork (including the Marquess’ own techni-coloured murals) and sumptuous décor. The grounds are equally as impressive, with lakes, follies, a gorgeous orangery, countless paths and trails and Longleat’s spectacular Yew hedge maze, with over a mile and a half’s pathway. Get to the middle, and you’re rewarded with the chance to climb the observing tower and watch other peoples’ hapless attempts at being as great at mazes as you are (even if it did take you the best part of the day to get there...).

But of course, for most people Longleat is synonymous with its Safari Park. Acres of the estate are put to great use as home to a huge menagerie of animals from all over the world. Lions, tigers, giraffes, camels, monkeys and loads of others roam about in this English Serengheti, observed from the comfort of your car. The Longleat safari boats are on hand to cruise alongside Californian sea lions, while you can also try to spot Nico the Gorilla on his island home in the middle of the lake, or resident hippopotamus Sonia and Spot. If you’re really lucky, you might catch a glimpse of the lesser-spotted Ben Fogle filming an episode of the BBC’s popular Animal Park series. And if that’s not enough to get your safari suit out of storage, we don’t know what is...

If a whole weekend at Longleat seems a bit much, the beautiful countryside of Wiltshire, Dorset and Somerset is on your doorstep. Miles of great walks and cycle trails make fulfilling your fresh air quota a cinch. The walk from The Bath Arms up to the top of nearby Heaven’s Gate Hill is particularly lovely, and offers some amazing views across Somerset - really stunning at sunset. For maps details of this walk and loads of others in the area, log on to Walking World (www.walkingworld.com).

If it’s history and beauty that you’re after, but don’t fancy the crowds at Longleat, visit gorgeous Stourhead (www.nationaltrust.org.uk Tel: 01747 841152), six miles from The Bath Arms. A honey-coloured Palladian mansion with world-famous landscape gardens, it couldn’t be a more romantic spot if it tried. Laid out in the mid-eighteenth-century, the gardens and parkland lie around a huge ornamental lake, its banks dotted with follies, grottos, temples and statues. It’s easy to spend a whole day strolling through the greenery, especially if you opt for a bite to eat and a pint at The Spread Eagle Inn (www.spreadeagleinn.com Tel: 01747 840587), Stourhead’s own country pub. For one of the best night’s out in the UK, visit Stourhead for its famous Fête Champetre in July - a fireworks/music/picknicking/dressing-up extravaganza which, despite its name, is very, very British.

Otherwise, there are plenty of more urban delights close by. Unsurprisingly, the stunning Weekenders mecca of Bath lies within easy reach of The Bath Arms - just half an hour in the car and you’re in the heart of jaw-dropping Georgian loveliness. For a full guide to what to see and where to eat once you get there, read The Weekenders Guide to Bath. For a slightly quieter alternative, fifteen miles north of Hornigsham is the picturesque medieval market town of Bradford on Avon, with its famous 13th-century bridge across the Avon, stunning Georgian architecture and weavers’ cottages. It’s a ‘mini Bath’ and a lovely place to while away a day if you fancy somewhere different. For a great day’s adventure, pack a picnic, hire a bike or a canoe from The Lock Inn (www.thelockinn.co.uk Tel: 01225 868068), on the Kennet & Avon Canal, and cycle, or paddle the ten miles along the canal to the heart of ‘proper Bath’.

Where can I eat?

The fab restaurant at The Bath Arms is a no-brainer of an eating option. Not only is the food delicious, but there’s nothing better than enjoying a great meal (and a bottle or three) of vino, safe in the knowledge that your squidgy bed is within stumbling distance.

If you are after an alternative place to eat, however, and don’t mind venturing a little further afield, there are plenty of lovely places nearby. For a special evening out, drive the seven miles to beautiful Bishopstrow House (www.bishopstrow.co.uk Tel: 01985 212312), just outside Warminster, and the hotel’s stylish Mulberry Restaurant. A fantastic fine-dining menu offers fresh and vibrant dishes made with the best in local ingredients. Classic British flavours fuse with exciting Mediterranean influences under the watchful eye of experienced Head Chef Ross Hadley.

For something a little less polished, but no less delicious, the brilliant George at Codford (Tel: 01985 850270) in Codford St Peter, 12 miles from The Bath Arms, is an award-winning gastropub that hasn’t betrayed its village local roots. An amazing menu of British-led dishes put together by renowned head chef Boyd McIntosh and his team, use fantastic local produce in an unpretentious, but totally mouth-watering way. Oh, and the puddings are to die for. Book ahead, especially if you fancy The George’s famously good Sunday lunches.

The Spread Eagle (www.spreadeagleinn.com Tel: 01747 840587) at Stourhead is a beautiful place for way-above-average pub grub. Home-made pies, slow-cooked stews, fresh fish and some fantastic roasts all made with the best in Dorset and Somerset ingredients are fabulous. All in stunning surroundings.

Otherwise, for a bit of variety, Bath is full of great places to eat. For the best places to eat in town, read The Weekenders Guide to Bath.

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Whether it’s the subconscious influence of the decidedly non-conformist Marquess of Bath, the talents of renowned interior designer Miv Watts or the friendly, smiley atmosphere, one thing is for certain - The Bath Arms is no ordinary local.