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The Belfry - Yarcombe

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Escape from it all in the Blackdown Hills

The lovely Belfry Country Hotel sits in the little village of Yarcombe, surrounded by the beautiful, rolling Blackdown Hills. The hotel is actually a converted 19th-century school house - all flint walls and huge, mullioned stained-glass windows - but the Belfry’s tranquil and laid-back atmosphere couldn’t be further from its educational heritage. This is a proper retreat and, while it’s just a few miles from the handy A303, is proper, in-the-middle-of-nowhere stuff.

The six en-suite bedrooms, all named after famous poets, are light, airy and stylish. Three enjoy those incredible stained-glass windows - the Coleridge room is particularly stunning - boasting views out over the village and towards the countryside beyond. Comfy beds are made with crisp white, cotton linen, while the bathrooms have bathrobes and huge, fluffy towels. Lots of little touches, such as CD players, home-made biscuits, wifi access and fresh milk and fruit juices are the icing on the cake.

Downstairs, The Belfry’s lovely little restaurant - once the infants’ classroom - is a cosy place to enjoy a mouth-watering evening meal. Owners Sarah-Jane and Neil are great hosts, and a whizz in the kitchen. Loads of local products and home-made deliciousness make up the vibrant and super-fresh menu, with British classics given a global twist and puddings to die for. The kitchen team (that’s Sarah-Jane) is small enough that guests are asked to order their food in advance and there’s just one sitting for dinner, but the effort is more than worth it. Breakfast (which can be ordered there and then!) is also fab - sausages, eggs and bacon from the local farm shop, kippers from the Dartmouth Smokehouse and home-made jams. The perfect way to start a bracing day in the country.

Where is it?

Pretty Yarcombe sits in the lovely Yarty Valley, on the southern edge of the Blackdown Hills - an official Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty and still a bit of a well-kept secret. It’s a friendly, sleepy little place with a pretty village church and its own thatched, 9th-century pub, The Yarcombe Inn - once owned by Sir Francis Drake as part of his estate. The real stars of the show, however, are the views - the surrounding hills are just crying out to be explored. A really lovely 6-mile walk starts in the neighbouring village of Membury, and takes you along the Yarty valley, over countless stiles, through pretty woodland and offering some great views en-route. For a map and full directions of this walk, plus loads more in the Blackdown Hills, log on to www.walkingworld.com. Otherwise, just launch into the countryside from the Belfry and see where you end up.

Fans of four legs should visit Heazle Riding Centre (www.heazle.co.uk Tel: 01823 680 280) in Hemyock, 10 miles from Yarcombe, for escorted hacks in the Hills. Alternatively, you could see the Blackdown Hills while plummeting from an aeroplane... SkyDive UK (www.parachuting-uk.com Tel: 01404 890222) organise jumps from Dunkeswell Airfield, about 20 minutes’ drive from the Belfry.

If all this sounds a bit of an effort, there are plenty of other, less strenuous, things to do nearby. Stunning Forde Abbey (www.fordeabbey.co.uk Tel: 01460 220231), once a Cistercian monastery before becoming a sumptuous stately home, is 10 miles from Yarcombe, and a gorgeous place to amble aimlessly for an afternoon. The extensive gardens are perfect for a summer picnic. Only a little further afield is the town of Ottery St Mary - he birthplace of local hero Samuel Taylor Coleridge and a great place for a potter (oh, and talking of potters, it’s also the inspiration for Ottery St Catchpole - the home of the Weasleys in the Harry Potter books...). The picture-book 14th-century fairytale church with its astronomical clocks and the strange, circular ‘tumbling weir’ are definitely worth a look, but it’s the sudden burst of festivities around Guy Fawkes night that have boosted Ottery in the ‘strange things British people get up to’ stakes. Around the 5th November every year, the town celebrates with its famous Ottery St Mary Carnival ( www.otterytarbarrels.co.uk). On the Saturday before the 5th, an impressive procession of tableaux rolls through the town’s streets, followed by a fantastic fireworks display. Then, on the 5th itself, the Ottery townspeople take part in the centuries-old tradition of carrying Flaming Tar Barrels (literally, barrels on fire - it’s enough to push a health & safety expert to tears) to the enormous bonfire that’s been steadily growing in the weeks leading up to the event. It all has to be seen to be believed.

Then there’s the sea - just half an hour’s drive from Yarcombe is lovely Lyme Regis and the dramatic Jurassic Coastline. Lyme is a refreshingly old-fashioned seaside resort that is guaranteed to give you a warm, fuzzy feeling whatever the weather. Higgledy-piggledy Georgian buildings line the narrow streets down to the seafront, where a colourful fleet of fishing boats still do their thing alongside Lyme’s great sandy beach. The historic harbour wall, the Cobb, stretches out into the sea - perfect for a stroll with great views back to the town - while the promenade is lined with little shops, cafes and some great opportunities for fish and chips. Take a boat trip along the coast on the gorgeous little Cornish crabber Frances Jane (www.lymebayboattrips.co.uk Tel: 07890 739625) or visit the award-winning Lyme Regis museum (www.lymeregismuseum.co.uk Tel: 01297 443370) to really get to know the place.

As part of the Jurassic Coast, a 95-mile long stretch of a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Lyme Regis is the place to go if you’re into fossil hunting. If you’re not, pop into Dinosaurland Fossil Museum (www.dinosaurland.co.uk Tel: 01297 443541) for some inspiration - it’s not quite Disneyland, but you’ll never need to see another ammonite again. For real-life dinosaur hunting, pebbly Charmouth Beach to the east of Lyme Regis is great for fossil-spotting.

Travel east from Lyme Regis for some more great seaside action, with plenty of long sandy beaches to enjoy close by an the pretty fishing village of Beer, 14 miles from Yarcombe. Once a hotspot for smugglers, the sheltered bay at Beer is home to one of the loveliest (but steepest) little beaches in Devon. It’s also where you can find the famous Beer Quarry Caves (www.beerquarrycaves.fsnet.co.uk Tel: 01297 680282), a vast underground network of man-made caves created by quarry workers from as far back as Roman times. The stone from Beer has been used in countless famous British buildings, including Exeter cathedral. Proper walking fans will also be in their element, with the South West Coast Path offering some great routes in the area. For maps and detailed routes, log on to www.southwestcoastpath.com . The two-mile cliff-top walk from Beer westwards towards Branscombe, in particular, is fantastic, and will more than satisfy any cravings for fresh air. End a round trip at the cosy Anchor Inn (www.anchorinn-beer.com Tel: 01297 203 86) for some great local fish and chips and a pint of real ale.

For something a bit different, travel to the neighbouring seaside town of Seaton and catch the Seaton Tramway (www.tram.co.uk Tel: 01297 20375) for a beautiful trip up the River Axe Valley. Amazing vintage trams - some of the open-topped - ply their way through green, rolling countryside to the very pretty town of Colyton. Brilliant.

And if none of this floats your boat, you could always try Diggerland (www.diggerland.com Tel: 08700 344437), half an hour from the Belfry - a full-on theme park dedicated to all things JCB. You can even try your hand at dumper truck racing. No, really.

Where can I eat?

The restaurant at the Belfry really is a no-brainer of an eating option. Not only is the food great, but there’s nothing better than enjoying a delicious meal (and a bottle or two of vino) within stumbling distance of your bed! Just remember to book ahead...

If you are looking for an alternative, however, there are plenty of other lovely places to eat within easy reach. The Yarcombe Inn (Tel: 01404 861676), across the road from the Belfry, with its flag-stoned floors and roaring fires is spot-on for post-walk pub grub, with lots of home-cooked loveliness and cask ales on offer. Otherwise, the lovely Merry Harriers (www.merryharriers.co.uk Tel: 01823 421270) in pretty Clayhidon, 8 miles from Yarcombe, is an award-winning foodie pub that serves mouth-watering local produce (including some fab, fresh fish) in a stunning Blackdown Hills setting.

For a big range of eating options, the Somerset County town of Taunton is just 12 miles from the Belfry, and has some amazing restaurants. The wonderful Willow Tree (Tel: 0844 567 2391), hidden away in the narrow Taunton back streets, is cosy, elegant and romantic, with impeccable culinary credentials - Head Chef Darren Sherlock was once a Roux Brothers protege. The dishes are colourful and vibrant, with fresh British produce given a continental twist, and the puddings are to die for - no wonder Willow Tree is winning awards left, right and centre.

But it’s the Restaurant at The Castle Hotel (www.the-castle-hotel.com Tel: 01823 272671) that has made Taunton a bit of a gastronomic mecca. Often named as one of the best places to eat in the UK, this Michelin-starred, multi-multi award-winning dining room serves British food at its best. A huge list of local suppliers provide the freshest ingredients, while Head Chef Richard Guest (his predecessors include Gary Rhodes) has used them to create a simple, but elegantly mouthwatering menu. Book way ahead...

If it’s a really romantic evening you’re after, visit gorgeous Combe House (www.thishotel.com Tel: 01404 540 400) in Gittisham, 11 miles from the Belfry. This beautiful country house hotel and its award-winning restaurant is stunning. Start your meal with an aperitif in the lovely gardens, then enjoy amazing British-led menus made with loads of great Devonshire ingredients. Very special.

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The lovely Belfry Country Hotel sits in the little village of Yarcombe, surrounded by the beautiful, rolling Blackdown Hills.