Aaaah… the lovely, lovely Bell at Skenfrith. This gorgeous 17th century coaching inn sits in the middle of rolling hills, meadows and overlooks the pretty Monnow River – if you can find a better example of a rural idyll, you’d be lying. Re-opened in 2001 by William and Janet Hutchings, The Bell has quickly become one of the most popular restaurants-with-rooms in Wales, although it could just as easily be rooms-with-a-restaurant-attached, so good is the whole package.
The Bell’s eight bedrooms are simply, but stylishly, decorated, with bespoke beds, crisp linen and down duvets that will make it almost impossible to leave them in the morning. Lovely en-suites, CD and DVD players and luxurious toiletries are just the icing on the cake. While some are bigger than others (two of the rooms have fab four-posters) all of the rooms, each named after fishing flies, have period features and lovely views of the Monmouthshire countryside. We particularly like Coachman, a light and airy cottage-y room with a beautiful window seat and its own original fireplace.
The restaurant at The Bell has become something of a local culinary legend, winning awards left, right and centre. Priding themselves on their fresh, unfussy and seasonal menus, the kitchen uses a plethora of yummy local produce and even grows its veggies, herbs and salads in its own kitchen garden. Locals and travellers-in-the-know flock to The Bell for its food, carefully selected wines and real ales – whether it be for that romantic evening meal, or a chilled Sunday lunch – but the satisfied buzz of its customers never ruins the tranquility that oozes out of the inn’s ever pore.
The village of Skenfrith sits right on the Welsh/English border, just north of Monmouth, in the middle of glorious countryside. It’s best known for the early 13th century Skenfrith castle (www.nationaltrust.org.uk Tel: 01874 625515). Originally an important fortification on the border, its rambling ruins on the banks of the River Monnow serve as a romantic reminder.
But it’s the Monmouthshire scenery that’s the real star around The Bell, and with beautiful trails and walking routes starting and finishing at the inn, you needn’t use your car the whole weekend. The Bell can provide maps and details of six specially-routed walks, including one up nearby Coedanghred Hill, also known as ‘Heart Attack Hill’, for breathtaking (literally) views of the surrounding countryside. Serious walkers will feel like they’ve hit the jackpot, with Offa’s Dyke and the Wye Valley Trail both passing within spitting distance of Skenfrith.
Twelve miles from Skenfrith is the dramatic Symonds Yat rock, a good spot to aim for on foot or by bike and a local landmark, towering above the River Wye and the valley beyond. Not only does it offer great views of the valley, but it’s one of the best spots to view Peregrine Falcons in the UK, usually between April and August. The little village beneath it, meanwhile, is the best place to hire canoes to explore the Wye and its exciting bends and not-too-scary rapids. The Wyedean Canoe and Adventure Centre (www.wyedean.co.uk Tel: 01594 833238) offers hire, tuition and a guide if you need one.
Nearby Monmouth is a bustling Welsh town, famous for its public schools and ancient castle ruins. However, it’s Hay-on-Wye, 25 miles to the north of Skenfrith, which provides the best day out if it’s market town pottering you’re after. Known internationally as ‘the town of books’, this pretty Welsh town, sitting amidst the stunning Brecon Beacons, is jam-packed with bookshops of every variety. But it’s the growing popularity of The Hay Festival (www.hayfestival.com Tel: 0870 990 1299) – the world’s best literary get-together that has really put the town on the map. Authors, politicians, film stars and anyone else of note descend on Hay for a week each summer to listen, read and discuss… well, books. Sounds odd, but it’s actually one of the most exciting events in the UK festival calendar.
Easy. The restaurant at The Bell really is a no-brainer of an eating option. Not only is the food fantastic, and some of the best for miles around, but there’s also nothing more satisfying than enjoying a great meal and a bottle (or two) of vino, safe in the knowledge that your bed is within stumbling distance.
If you are looking for an alternative, however, The Stone Mill at Rockfield (www.thestonemill.co.uk Tel: 01600 716273), 5 miles from Skenfrith, is a stylish restaurant serving a vibrant British menu in a beautifully-converted barn. Local produce plays a huge part in the menus that include a brilliant value set lunch option. For something a little more rustic, The Lion Inn (www.lioninn.co.uk Tel: 01600 860322) in pretty Trellech, 12 miles from Skenfrith, is a uber-friendly, and slightly mad, village pub that offers award-winning classic pub grub alongside surprisingly delicious Hungarian dishes (the landlord’s family are from Hungary). The Lion – multiple winner of ‘Best pub in Wales’ - serves plenty of real ales and, with its gorgeous surroundings makes for a cosy afternoon retreat.
This gorgeous 17th century coaching inn sits in the middle of rolling hills, meadows and overlooks the pretty Monnow River – if you can find a better example of a rural idyll, you’d be lying.
11 bedrooms - 6 doubles (£105-170); 2 attic suites (£160); 3 four-posters (£185-220)
| Wheelchair access | |
| Child friendly | |
| Baby friendly | |
| Dogs friendly | |
| Breakfast included | |
| Credit cards accepted | |
| Parking available | |
| Station within 10min | |
| Spa Facilities | |
| Discounts available | |
| Restaurant on site |
The nearest railway station to Skenfrith is 12 miles away in Abergavenny (trains from London Paddington, changing at Newport, Gwent - 2 hours 30 minutes).
Abergavenny Taxis - Tel: 01873 854140