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The Black Lion - Long Melford

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Beautiful inn with beautiful views

Not only is The Black Lion a classically English inn, but it must have some of the most classically English views we’ve ever come across. Sitting on the edge of a vast village green, with a row of cottages and a gorgeous medieval church to its right and the dramatic skyline of Elizabethan chimneystacks belonging to the lovely Melford Hall straight ahead, it’s a vista Andrew Davies would go mad for.

The inn itself is no less impressive. A 17th century building with the period features to match, its transformation into a luxury hotel and award-winning restaurant appears to have been seemless. Downstairs, rich colours, a crackling fire, higgledy-piggledy antique furniture and those far-reaching views across the green make the informal areas of the hotel a cosy haven, while the more formal, but equally lovely, dining room is a smart primrose, with starched table cloths and views out across the Victorian walled garden. The Black Lion’s award-winning menus use the best in local and seasonal ingredients, with puddings to die for and a lovingly-chosen wine list to match. It’s one of the most popular places to eat in the county, and with the amazing Brit-led dishes and that location, it’s easy to see why.

Upstairs, the ten en-suite bedrooms are sumptuous to say the least. All individually designed, each has its own star attraction, whether it be a huge, antique four-poster, a cosy sitting room with its own original fireplace, Louis XV-style bathroom, complete with chandelier, or just an enormous sash window with those views. And if your room doesn’t make you feel special enough, little touches such as fluffy bathrobes, crisp bedlinen and great toiletries surely will.

Where is it?

The very pretty village of Long Melford, 12 miles from Bury St Edmunds and just 50 from London, is the perfect place for an idyllic weekend escape. With its historical connections - the village played a big part in The Peasants Revolt, then became increasingly rich through its cloth and weaving exports - it’s unsurprising that the place is full of amazing buildings. From the half-timbered Bull Inn to Austen-esque Georgian facades and the two... yes, two huge stately homes in the village. Elizabethan Melford Hall (www.nationaltrust.org.uk Tel: 01787 376395) is open to the public from March to October, and is a fascinating place to wander around. Not only are there rooms furnished in styles from pretty much every century since Elizabeth I stayed there in 1578, but it’s also home to the original Jemima Puddle Duck (Beatrix Potter was a regular guest at the Hall). Edwardian-style gardens and 52 acres of parkland are great for picnics.

Independently-owned Kentwell (www.kentwell.co.uk Tel: 01787 310207) is a Tudor Hall that feels much more lived-in (because it is), and a bit more exciting as a result. From the castle made of Yew trees, to the camera obscura in the garden gazebo and Terry Gilliam’s original Baron Munchausen’s Galleon in the pond, the owners have really gone to town in making Kentwell a magical place. Film makers have also seen the appeal, using the house in films as diverse as the cult Witchfinder General in the late 60s and as Toad Hall in Terry Jones’ Wind in the Willows. Actors are also the order of the day in Kentwell’s year-round programme of re-enactments, including a brilliant World War II-era fete on Spring Bank Holiday, complete with Home Guard parade. Check the website for details of this year’s events.

Its idyllic spot in the heart of the Stour Valley means that Long Melford is a great base for some brisk weekend walks. A lovely 7-miler takes you through ancient woodland, across rolling pasture and past some lovely villages and Kentwell Hall. Log on to www.walkinginsuffolk.co.uk for a downloadable map and directions. Otherwise, a short drive will take you to the rural idyll of medieval Lavenham, just 5 miles from Long Melford. Park the car and wander around to see why this is one of the UK’s most popular film locations. Lavenham’s crooked streets are lined with the finest collection of timber-framed houses in England. It’s all a bit wonky, but very, very pretty.

Bury St Edmunds, a 25-minute drive, is worth a nose, if only to visit the uber-cute The Nutshell (Tel: 01284 764867) – Britain’s smallest pub. At less than 5m by 2m big, there’s only room for about 6 people at the bar! And on the subject of ale, Bury is a bit of a beer-lover’s treat as the Greene King brewery (www.greeneking.co.uk Tel: 01284 714297) is famously situated, Willy Wonka-like, in the centre of town. Their visitor centre is the place to taste the stuff. Otherwise, Bury’s stunning cathedral, picturesque medieval ruins, lovely Georgian architecture and regular, bustling markets, are more than enough to make it a fascinating place to visit.

Where can I eat?

The Black Lion really is a no-brainer of an eating option. Not only is the food fantastic, and some of the best in Suffolk, but there’s nothing better than enjoying an amazing evening meal and a bottle (or two) of vino, all within stumbling distance of your bed.

If you are looking for alternatives, however, there are some great places to eat in the area.

For something a bit different, Scutchers (www.scutchers.com Tel: 01787 310200), owned and run by husband and wife team Nick and Diane Barrett, serves colourful and vibrant up-scale bistro food with influences from all over the world. Classic dishes are given the Scutchers ‘treatment’ - maybe a Mediterrean tweak there or a hint of Japan there - with mouthwatering results.

For a very special evening out and one with the backing of numerous national food critics, The Great House restaurant in Lavenham (www.greathouse.co.uk Tel: 01787 247431) has become a bit of a local legend, with proper French dishes and proper French cooking making it stand out from the crowd – even the photos on their website will make your mouth water. And with great lunch and dinner set menus, eating here won’t ruin the romantic atmosphere by taking your wallet hostage.

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Not only is The Black Lion a classically English inn, but it must have some of the most classically English views we’ve ever come across. A luxury hotel and restaurant in beautiful Suffolk surroundings.