The Weekenders - Search for weekend getaways around the UK.

The Elmfield - Ilfracombe

5|4|3|2|1

Stylish family hotel by the sea

Matt and Zoe Brewer, the new owners of the Elmfield Hotel in Ilfracombe have worked miracles. Formerly an unwieldy, Victorian seaside hotel (sporting a rather natty line in swirly carpets and flocked wallpaper), the Elmfield is now a haven of boutique chic, with stylish decor, delicious food and even a heated swimming pool. This is no ordinary chic retreat, however. Romantic couples will certainly find it a friendly and welcoming seaside bolthole, with its position overlooking the town, rather than sitting in the middle of it, giving it a feeling of escape. But Matt and Zoe and their young family have also made The Elmfield the perfect weekend destination for frazzled parents and their offspring, with laid-back, family-friendly touches at every turn.

Inside, the bedrooms are a fantastic mix of luxury, elegance and informality. All the rooms are different, but all have their own stylish signature. There are sumptuous four posters, designer fabrics, flat screen tellies, lovely toiletries and some stunning views towards Ilfracombe. The brilliant family suite is perfect for parents who want to take their little ones away but crave their own grown-up holiday too - a luxurious double bedroom with all its romantic little extras has its own adjoining kids’ room (with two lovely doors in between!), with its own bathroom and telly. The hotel’s transformation is on-going, so there are stylish touches being added all the time, with the en-suite bathrooms next to go under the knife.

The rest of the building is a warren of places to relax, places to eat and places to keep you and yours occupied when the sun forgets to shine. And the perfectly-judged balance between ‘family holiday hotel’ and ‘romantic retreat where your brood can tag along’ is evident throughout. A games room is great for the kids , while a fully-stocked licensed bar and extremely cosy sitting room that turns into a cinema in the evenings are a haven for grown-ups. And if you thought that family holidays meant early mornings, think again – throughout the summer, The Elmfield organises Saturday morning cartoon sessions on the big screen, complete with croissants, OJ and a babysitter, leaving parents to enjoy an unterrupted lie-in. Unless they want to join in, obviously.

The dining room downstairs is the heart of the hotel and couldn’t be further from the dark and miserable breakfast rooms that are synonymous with Victorian seaside behemoths (although skip back a year or so, before Zoe and Matt worked their magic and that’s exactly what you would have found!). Light and funky, it’s the perfect place for a lengthy breakfast, which is lucky as the breakfasts at The Elmfield are the stuff of legend. Eggs are served in four different ways, the granola is home-made, the ingredients are local, the bucks fizz is flowing – it’s all delicious. And there’s a fantastic home-cooked dinner on offer in the evenings too - perfect for parents who know the horrors of trying to find a restaurant that everybody likes in a place they’ve never been before.

And if all that isn’t enough, you can wander into The Elmfield’s extensive and very pretty gardens to take a dip in the covered, all-weather heated swimming pool, complete with jacuzzi and sauna. It’s all a frazzled parent’s dream – let the kids exhaust themselves, then while they’re conked out upstairs, enjoy an evening swim, romantic movie and a gin and tonic (or six), before a worry-free lie-in and an enormous breakfast. You couldn’t make it up…

Where is it?

Buzzy Ilfracombe is a traditional, but vibrant seaside resort on the beautiful North Devon coast. Lovers of all things seaside-y will lap it up – there’s plenty of fish, chips, pebbles and seagulls to enjoy - but those looking for something a little more cosmopolitan won’t be disappointed either – Ilfracombe is fast becoming a bit of a gourmet and arty melting pot. First port of call (once you’ve packed your picnic and grabbed your trunks) has to be the brilliant tunnels beaches (www.tunnelsbeaches.co.uk). Follow the unremarkable tunnel from the Landmark Theatre and you’ll be thrown out into a gorgeous set of beaches, sheltered by the towering cliffs and perfect for swimming. A huge tidal sea-water swimming pool is supervised by a lifeguard during the summer, while all around the rocky coastline is easy to explore and great for rockpooling. The stylish Café Blue Bar and seasonal Beach Bar make the hidden beaches the perfect summer place to hang out.

On the other side of the rocks, the town is centred around its harbour, where multi-coloured buildings watch over bobbing fishing boats. You can catch a boat to nearby Lundy Island (www.lundyisland.co.uk) from here – a tranquil and timeless place to bond with the wildlife and avoid buckets, spades and sugar-fuelled children. For wildlife watching from the water, board the Ilfracombe Princess (www.ilfracombeprincess.co.uk) on one of its seal-spotting missions. Back on dry land, there’s a plethora of coolly-kitsch seaside distractions – crazy golf, comedy and cabaret at The Landmark Theatre (www.northdevontheatres.org.uk) and cream teas coming at you from every angle.

It’s easy to escape the bustle. Beautiful walks take you out of the town and up and over the rocky coastline. For a lovely trek out of Ilfracombe towards the very pretty village of Berrynarbor and back to the coast for a scramble along the rocks, log on to the brilliant www.walkingworld.com, where you’ll also find details of lots of other walks in the area. Otherwise, head west by car for long, empty stretches of sandy beach at Woolacombe. If it’s full-on watersport action you’re after, the pretty village of Croyde and its 800m of golden, sheltered beach is only a 9 miles from Ilfracombe. Known by many surfers as 'The Place of Legends', it’s one of the UK’s most popular surfing destinations. If you fancy having a go, Surf South West (www.surfsouthwest.co.uk Tel: 01271 890400) offer classes, from 2-hour introductions to full weekend courses.

Head in the opposite direction to reach the pretty fishing village of Lynmouth, and the leafy Lyn Valley stretching back into the wilds of Exmoor. The Lyn Valley is stunning, with ancient woodland, waterfalls and high rockfaces on all sides. Walk up the valley, beside the bubbling East Lyn river, to Watersmeet House (www.nationaltrust.org.uk Tel: 01598 753348), a lovely 19th century fishing lodge and now a National Trust teashop. Slightly inland from the coast and back from Lynton is the spectacular Valley of the Rocks - one of the most dramatic parts of the Exmoor landscape. Popular with walkers and climbers, the almost surreal clusters of rocky tors and outcrops are distinctly Alp-like - it’s even home to an ancient herd of wild goats. If walking on its own doesn’t float your boat, Exmoor is also a playground for all things equine - the National Park is home to the famously hardy Exmoor ponies, plus lots of great Riding Stables. Lower Dean Riding Stables ( www.deanridingstables.co.uk Tel: 01598 763565), 8 miles from Ilfracombe, is a good place to start. An afternoon’s hack is the ideal way to enjoy the countryside made famous in RD Blackmore’s romantic classic, Lorna Doone (a book which, incidently, couldn’t be a better choice for curling up with back at The Elmfield).

Where can I eat?

Zoe’s delicious home-cooked meals are an obvious choice for anyone wanting a no-hassle evening, with lots of local ingredients on the menu and the benefit of a bar and a comfy bed within stumbling distance.

If you are looking for alternatives, however, there are plenty within easy reach. The coolest option has to be 11 The Quay (www.11thequay.co.uk Tel: 01271 868090) in Ilfracombe’s centre. With financial backing and some great art on the walls from Damian Hirst, this is a restaurant with style that stands out in this very traditional, Victorian town. The delicious menus are just as stylish - all vibrant flavours and beautiful presentation - while the views of the crashing Atlantic and the cliffs diving into the sea are amazing.

La Gendarmerie (Tel: 01271 865984) is a cosy but funky bistro in the town’s old police station, serving great British menus using lots of local, fresh ingredients (including some great seafood, naturally). Or you could try 71 (www.seventyone.biz Tel: 01271 863632) on Fore Street for another popular bistro that adds sway to Ilfracombe’s growing reputation as a gastro destination.

For delicious, healthy and family-friendly lunch grub try Grassroots Café (Tel: 01271 865238). Or stuff them with fish and chips – there’s plenty in Ilfracombe, although for the best of the best you need to travel the 8 miles west to the award-winning Squires in Braunton (Tel: 0)1271 815533)

For a great country gastropub, the Fox and Goose (www.foxandgoose-parracombe.co.uk Tel: 01598 763239) in the pretty Exmoor village of Parracombe, 12 miles from Ilfracombe is full of rustic favourites, made with great Devon and Somerset produce.

Top of page

Owners Matt and Zoe and their young family have also made The Elmfield the perfect weekend destination for frazzled parents and their offspring, with stylish,laid-back, family-friendly touches at every turn.