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The French Horn - Sonning-on-Thames

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Classy Thames-side retreat

If the only Thames you know is the one that snakes its way through the Eastenders title sequence, the terms ‘relaxing’ and ‘tranquil’ might not be the first that spring to mind. But as mole and ratty will tell you, venture out of the city and the river flows through some of the most beautiful spots in the country. In the case of The French Horn, this includes the hotel’s actual gardens, great sloping lawns with stunning river views.

This elegant Berkshire hotel is the perfect way to get your idyllic retreat, with lots of luxury thrown in. The French Horn is officially an award-winning restaurant-with-rooms, but offers far more. Most of its bedrooms offer gorgeous river views, with the deluxe doubles and sumptuous suites sitting right on the banks of the Thames, some with their own romantic balconies. The pleasure of falling asleep to the gentle sound of water can never be over-estimated (unless you need the toilet...). Light and spacious, the rooms offer traditional, timeless elegance with a contemporary twist. Lovely en-suite bathrooms, with Penhaligon toiletries and fluffy towels make the escape complete.

Despite all this though, it’s the French Horn’s restaurant that’s the real star of the show. Making full use of the hotel’s position, the dining room is almost entirely glass-fronted, boasting amazing views down to the river and its weeping willows. In summer, the doors are flung open and guests can enjoy long drinks on the restaurant’s gorgeous terrace and lawn. Dinner itself is equally fresh and exhilarating, with award-winning Head Chef Gilles Company showing his credentials as a card-carrying Francophile. Suitably enough for a waterside restaurant, fish is a particular speciality - mouthwateringly-fresh and simply prepared.

Where is it?

The pretty village of Sonning-on-Thames is just 30 miles from London, but is the very definition of leafy tranquility. In fact, in riverside classic Three Men in a Boat, Jerome K. Jerome describes Sonning as "the most fairy-like little nook on the whole river". The village itself is there to be wandered about aimlessly more than anything else, which with the river right on its doorstep is spectacularly easy and pleasurable. The beautiful Sonning Bridge which links the village with the hamlet of Sonning Eye, The Deanery - one of Sonning’s many grand houses - designed by Edward Lutyens for the founder of Country Life and the centuries-old Bull Inn are all worth a look. For a bit of eccentric excitement, visit Sonning in May for the annual Scarecrow Trail - an amazing collection of scarecrows (over 70 at the last count) in different outfits on display all over the village.

Sonning’s location is great for walkers, with the Thames path offering as many miles of riverside rambles as your heart desires. A particularly lovely route takes you from The French Horn to Henley and back the other side - about 10 miles in total. Enjoy lunch at Henley and make a day of it. Talking of Henley, this is prime rowing country, and Sonning is a great place to stay during the world-famous Henley Royal Regatta in July (log on to the Regatta website for details of this year’s event - www.hrr.co.uk Tel: 01491 572153). A five-day fest of all things water-borne, Henley’s exciting racing programme, blazer-clad spectators, vast ocean of Pimms and well-heeled beautiful young things make for a highlight in the English social calendar.

The rest of the Thames Valley holds a bundle of well-heeled attractions. Henley is a lovely town to explore all year round, with an attractive marketplace full of boutiques and cafes and, of course, that famous waterfront. The River and Rowing Museum (www.rrm.co.uk Tel: 01491 415600) is fascinating and the perfect diversion for a Thames-based break - especially the very cool, interactive Wind in the Willows exhibition. For an even better idea of river living, get waterborne yourself in a rowing boat or little electric launch. Hobbs of Henley (www.hobbs-of-henley.com Tel: 01491 572035) rent out both by the hour or the day.

Further downriver (20 minutes by car from Sonning) is the pretty riverside village of Cookham, a huddle of small shops, restaurants and the perfect base for walks along the Thames or up Winter Hill – a 200ft beauty spot that offers fantastic views. The village is best known as the birthplace and home of British artist, Sir Stanley Spencer, and the small but brilliant museum dedicated to his work is a fascinating place to visit (www.stanleyspencer.org.uk Tel: 01628-471885). Two miles further downriver is the jaw-dropping Cliveden (www.nationaltrust.org.uk Tel: 01628 605069), a behemoth of an Italianate mansion, once the hub of early 20th century society, and now one of the most luxurious hotels in the country. Bought by the American Astor family in 1893, Cliveden is most famous for its part in the Profumo Affair, while other notable guests have included most royals and countless A-listers (although today it has been infiltrated by premier league footballers and their wedding parties). The house is open to the public on selected days during the summer, while the amazing formal gardens, woodlands, and riverside walks are open most of the year. If you find yourself seduced by the A-list lifestyle, you can buy day or half-day packages at the hotel’s award-winning and truly beautiful Pavilion Spa (www.clivedenhouse.co.uk Tel: 01628 668561).

Venture even further (a half hour’s drive) and you’ll find yourself in Royal Windsor where you’ll be hard pressed to ignore the star attraction as it looms over the town, and can be spotted for miles around. The famous silhouette of Windsor Castle (www.royal.gov.uk Tel: 01753 831118) is ingrained on most British brains, but it’s just as iconic inside. The largest and oldest occupied castle in the world (it was started in 1070), covers 26 acres and includes a royal palace, the stunning St George’s Chapel and a whole village of cottages and mews for the people who work there. The castle is also home to the huge and amazingly detailed Queen Mary’s Dollshouse, the most famous dollshouse in the world. The main attractions are the uber-grand State Apartments, which will impress even the staunchest Republican, although these are obviously shut when the Queen is in residence. The rest of the town certainly revolves around its royal patronage. Every other day at 11am (except Sundays), the changing of the guard sees a full-blown parade through town from the barracks to the castle - band, bearskins and all. It’s all very stirring.

For something a bit less noisy, but no less royal, venture into the enormous Windsor Great Park, 5000 acres of parkland, farmland, gardens and deer grazing, which stretches for miles in all directions. The Long Walk, an impressively straight mile’s-worth of driveway stretches from the gates of the castle to the Copper Horse - a huge statue of George III on horseback and a bit of a local landmark. It’s perfect for a weekend stroll, or you could do it the royal way on a horse-drawn Hackney carriage. Orchard Poyle (www.orchardpoyle.co.uk Tel: 01784 435983) offers tours around the park in either a covered omnibus, or a gorgeous charabanc.

Where can I eat?

The gorgeous restaurant at The French Horn is a no-brainer of an eating option. Not only is the food outstanding, but there can be nothing better than enjoying a fantastic meal and a bottle (or two) of vino, safe in the knowledge that your bed is within staggering distance.

If you are looking for alternatives, however, there are plenty of great places to eat in the area. The historic and very pretty Bull Inn (www. accommodating-inns.co.uk/bullinn Tel: 0118 969 3901) - said to be a favoured haunt of Dick Turpin - serves up classic pub grub in the heart of Sonning. But for something a bit different, The Mill in Sonning Eye (www.millatsonning.com Tel: 0118 969 8000) is an 18th century flour mill that has been transformed into a popular dinner theatre. Enjoy a delicious meal before watching a show in the 215-seat auditorium, plus post-show live jazz at weekends.

A little further afield, The St George and Dragon (www.stgeorgeanddragon.co.uk Tel: 0118 940 5021) in the nearby village of Wargrave (3 miles from Sonning) is a sleek and chic gastropub with a fresh and vibrant menu and an even more stunning riverside location. Another great gastropub is The Lamb at Satwell (www.awtrestaurants.com Tel: 01491 628482), 8 miles from The French Horn and close to Henley. Owned by Antony Worrall Thompson, this country inn serves up home-cooked classics such as Shepherd’s Pie and Macaroni Cheese, only with the freshest of ingredients. Comfort Eating at its best.

Of course, if it’s Michelin stars you’re after, you couldn’t be in a better neck of the woods. The riverside village of Bray is just 12 miles from Sonning, and home to The Fat Duck (www.fatduck.co.uk Tel: 01628 580 333) – perhaps the most famous restaurant in the UK. Owned by Heston Blumenthal, this 3-Michelin-Star powerhouse has been named 2007 Best Restaurant in the UK and 2007 2nd Best Restaurant in the World. Blumenthal’s uber-innovative, scientific cooking style makes for arguably the most amazing food combinations you will ever put in your mouth – the tasting menu (including, famously, snail porridge and Nitro-scrambled egg and bacon ice cream), is a once-in-a-lifetime experience. The Fat Duck takes bookings up to two months in advance, so you need to be quick off the mark to get that table.

For something a little less breathless (and a lot easier on the bank balance), Blumenthal has also opened The Hind’s Head in Bray (www.thehindsheadhotel.com Tel: 01628 626151) – a cut-above-the-average gastro-pub that serves brilliantly comforting British classics, alongside puddings to die for and an award-winning wine list.

Other culinary legends in the area include The Waterside Inn (www.waterside-inn.co.uk Tel: 01628 620691), Michel Roux’s 3-Michelin-star restaurant, also in Bray; Dean Timpson at The Compleat Angler (www.deantimpson.co.uk Tel: 01628 405405), 10 miles from Sonning at Marlow; and the Michelin-starred Waldo’s at Cliveden (www.clivedenhouse.co.uk Tel: 01628 668561).

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This elegant Berkshire hotel is the perfect way to get your idyllic retreat, with lots of luxury thrown in. The French Horn is officially an award-winning restaurant-with-rooms, but offers far more.