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The Royal Oak Inn - Luxborough

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Comfy-cosy inn in the heart of Exmoor

Approach pretty little Luxborough in the heart of Exmoor, and you won’t be able to help thinking you’re a Hobbit. The three hamlets that make up this higgledy-piggledy village sit in a secluded valley, with the rolling countryside of the wooded Brendon Hills all around you and the mysterious Croydon Hill dominating the vista. Right in the middle of all this, chimney smoking (well, in the winter anyway... go with it...), is the lovely Royal Oak Inn - warm, cosy and popular with real ale fanatics, weekenders-in-the-know and inhabitants of Middle Earth in equal measure.

For a bit of rustic relaxation you can’t do much better. Inside, flagstone floors, original beams and log fires sit alongside big sash windows and a pretty pub garden, so that whatever the weather it’s easy to do very little and enjoy yourself. The twelve, cottage-y en-suite bedrooms are the epitome of comfy-cosy, with big beds and lovingly-chosen antique furniture offering a haven to come back to after a day of fresh air, while many have great views of the Brendon Hills. Lie in bed with the window open and you can almost smell the green-ness outside.

As well as an impressive selection of CAMRA-approved ales, the Royal Oak also serves up some fantastic food - both in its bustling restaurant and in the bar area. Passionate head chef Tim Sandy’s menus are elegantly rustic - a mouthwatering and vibrant collection of British-led dishes, with a regularly-changing specials board making fantastic use of great seasonal and local ingredients (watch out for the catch of the day - after all the sea is only 6 miles away). Oh, and the puddings and cheeses are to die for.

Where is it?

Luxborough really does seem to be in the middle of nowhere, although the bustling Somerset seaside resort of Minehead is only 7 miles away. The rolling Exmoor landscape surrounds the village on all sides and is screaming to be walked/cycled/ridden on. The 36-mile Coleridge Way ( www.coleridgeway.co.uk) passes through Luxborough - a bit of a trek for one weekend, but with lots of do-able sections that take in some breathtaking scenery. Alternatively, you could venture up Croydon Hill - a woody hill, with a maze of trails and paths that lead to the summit and beautiful views towards the sea and Dunkery Beacon - Exmoor’s highest point. Be warned though - after dark, Croydon Hill is said to be haunted by all sorts of supernatural goings-on (much like its London namesake)... For more great Exmoor walks log on the the brilliant www.walkingbritain.co.uk.

If walking on its own isn’t enough, Exmoor is also a playground for all things equine - the National Park is home to the famously hardy Exmoor ponies, plus lots of great Riding Stables. The Knowle Riding Centre ( www.knowlemanor.co.uk Tel: 01643 841342) at Knowle Manor, five miles from Luxborough, is a good place to start. An afternoon’s hack is the ideal way to enjoy the countryside made famous in RD Blackmore’s romantic classic, Lorna Doone (a book which, incidently, couldn’t be a better choice for curling up with back at the hotel).

If miles of walking (or riding) really isn’t your thing (or maybe you weren’t quite as fit as your unused Holmes Place membership card led you to believe...), there’s plenty of fantastic places to visit by car. Five miles from The Royal Oak (a lovely walk, incidentally) is the romantic medieval village of Dunster. With over 200 listed buildings, the village is remarkably well-protected from the scourge of mass-tourism and is a potterer’s paradise. Pretty boutiques, galleries, antique shops and cafes line the main street, that has stayed pretty much unchanged for centuries. But it’s hard to miss Dunster’s main attraction - the fairy tale Dunster Castle ( www.nationaltrust.org.uk Tel: 01643 823004), which sits on a wooded hill overlooking the village and has views and gardens to die for. For the full romantic experience, walk from the castle to Dunster’s West Somerset Railway station ( www.west-somerset-railway.co.uk Tel: 01643 704996) and board a steam train. The trains stop at the long and sandy Blue Anchor Beach just a mile or so from Dunster and the lovely little harbour town of Watchet, before travelling inland, past the Quantock Hills, towards Taunton.

The coastal town of Minehead (or the self-titled ‘Somerset Riviera’) is just a few miles from Luxborough, and is as traditional a British seaside resort as you’re likely to find. The long, sandy beach is great, but it can all get quite busy in the summer. For a slightly less hectic beach experience, head twenty miles west to the twin coastal villages of Lynton and Lynmouth, which are joined by the quirky, water-powered Lynton and Lynmouth Cliff Railway ( www.cliffrailwaylynton.co.uk Tel: 01598 753486). Lynmouth, at the bottom of the gorge created by the two Lynmouth rivers, is dwarfed by the dramatic backdrop where Exmoor meets the sea. It’s a very pretty place, despite a glut of tourists in the summer, and has a shingle beach that’s great for surfers, baskers and paddlers alike.

Where can I eat?

The restaurant at The Royal Oak really is a no-brainer of an eating option. Not only is the food fantastic, but there’s nothing better than enjoying a great meal and a bottle (or two) of vino, safe in the knowledge that your bed is within stumbling distance.

If you’re looking for an alternative, there are some lovely places to eat nearby, but you’ll probably have to use the car. Reeves Restaurant ( www.reevesrestaurantdunster.co.uk Tel: 01643 821414) in Dunster is a very cosy place, with a great menu of British and French dishes made with the freshest of local ingredients. Unsurprisingly, given Dunster’s coastal location, the seafood is especially great. For more freshly-caught fish, try Andrews on the Weir ( www.andrewsontheweir.co.uk Tel: 01643 863 300), a gorgeous, award-winning restaurant right on the water at Porlock Weir, 13 miles from Luxborough. Simple, but mouthwatering, dishes are served in a beautiful dining room overlooking the pretty harbour outside.

For a great gastropub, drive the 11 miles inland from The Royal Oak to the pretty village of Dulverton and Woods Bar & Dining Room (Tel: 01398 324007), a very cosy and pleasingly bustling pub-restaurant. Winner of 2007’s Wine Pub of The Year, Woods is just as lauded for its hearty menu - made from the freshest local produce and cooked by Provencal chef Oliver Certan - a great mix of British and French bistro deliciousness.

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Cosy bedrooms, fantastic restaurant, real ales on tap - for a bit of rustic relaxation you can’t do much better than The Royal Oak in the heart of rolling Exmoor.