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The Saracens Head Inn - Symonds Yat

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Lovely riverside retreat

It’s not often you get to stay in a local legend, even less often in somewhere as dramatic as Symond’s Yat. But The Saracen’s Head Inn really is special, situated as it is right on the banks of the fast-flowing River Wye in some of the UK’s most spectacular scenery. The tiny village of Symonds Yat (…East – Symonds Yat West is on the other side of the river and isn’t half as tranquil. Although you can reach it by ro-ro ferry from the Inn – all very Hobbit-like) sits under the shadow of Symonds Yat rock and is all the more romantic and cosy for it.

The Saracen’s Head is a 17th-century inn, which stretches out along the riverbank. Nine rooms in the inn itself are comfy and cosy, most with gorgeous river views, and with all the period features you would expect from a building as old as this one. The newly-built rooms in the Boathouse annexe are a real treat, however. Stylish décor mixed with distinctly un-Tolkienesque luxury, big en-suite bathrooms and stunning views across the river, make for the perfect escape away from it all.

In the bustling bar and restaurant, locals, guests, twitchers and walkers can enjoy a range of real ales, including some local, Wye Valley, varieties, plus an excellent menu of above-average pub grub made with local and seasonal produce. Riverside terraces are perfect for summertime al-fresco dining, although the views in Spring and Autumn are heart-stopping.

Where is it?

Symonds Yat sits in the heart of the beautiful Wye Valley – an official Area of Outstanding Beauty that is often ignored by urbanites wanting a weekend away from it all, which is a crying shame. After all, its rolling hills, craggy gorges and cliffs offer total escape, its winding river with occasional rapids and the chance for adventure is one of the most picturesque in the country and the market towns and villages that sit in the valley are as charming and explorable as any in the Yorkshire Dales. And all of this can be found less than 3 hours from London (even less from Manchester and Birmingham).


The Saracen’s Head Inn sits beneath the dramatic Symonds Yat rock, towering above the River Wye and the valley beyond. Not only does it offer great views of the valley, but it’s one of the best spots to view Peregrine Falcons in the UK, usually between April and August. The little village beneath it, meanwhile, is the best place to hire canoes to explore the Wye and its exciting bends and not-too-scary rapids. The Wyedean Canoe and Adventure Centre (www.wyedean.co.uk Tel: 01594 833238) offers hire, tuition and a guide if you need one. Land-lubbers are well-catered for too, with miles and miles of trails making for fab walking territory. The Wye Valley walk, from source to mouth, (all 136 miles of it) might be a bit much for a weekend stroll, but there are plenty of shorter, circular routes to follow. Cyclists will also think they’ve died and gone to heaven, with the stunning 30-mile Wye Valley Ride offering an almost perfect day on two wheels. A full route map can be downloaded from www.herefordshire.gov.uk. Bikes can be hired from Pedalaway (www.zen95973.zen.co.uk Tel: 01989 770357) in Llangarron, 4 miles from The Saracen’s Head.

If all that countryside makes you wheezy, the market town of Ross-on-Wye, 7 miles from Symonds Yat, is a great place to potter amongst people. Set high on a sandstone cliff overlooking the river, the higgledy-piggledy streets of historic timbered and stone buildings are now home to small shops, café, galleries and antiques emporiums. A must-visit is Grandma Peggy’s (www.grandmapeggys.co.uk Tel: 01989 764 264), an amazing old-fashioned sweet shop, with rows and rows of sweets in jars, Art Deco fixtures and fittings, 1940s music and staff in 1940s dress. Just make sure you brush your teeth afterwards…

Where can I eat?

The Saracen’s Head is a great place to sit by the fire, or by the river, and fill your boots with hearty fare after a long walk. And after all, there’s nothing better than eating a delicious meal and a pint (or six) of local beer, safe in the knowledge that your bed is within stumbling distance. If you’re looking for an alternative, however, there are some other fab eating options in the area.

Ross-on-Wye is home to several good restaurants, one of the best being The Mulberry at Wilton Court (www.wiltoncourthotel.com Tel: 01989 562 569) – a stylish hotel on the banks of the river. Fabulous British dishes made almost entirely with local produce change with the seasons, but are always accompanied by puddings to die for and an eminently explorable wine list. For something a little more rustic, but equally fantastic, The Lough Pool Inn (www.loughpool.co.uk Tel: 01989 730236) in Sellack, a fifteen minute drive from Symonds Yat, is an uber-popular country pub that’s worth the drive. In pretty Herefordshire countryside (perfect for a post or pre-lunch walk), its simple, but vibrant menus have made The Lough Pool a real local favourite.

A bit further afield, but definitely worth the journey is The Bell at Skenfrith (www.skenfrith.co.uk Tel: 01600 750235), about 20 minutes’ drive from The Saracen’s Head. A local culinary hero, the award-winning restaurant at The Bell offers simple British dishes that allow the amazing local ingredients to speak for themselves. Even the majority of the veggies, herbs and salads are all organically grown in The Bell’s very own kitchen garden.

If you’re into a bit of picnicking, you can’t go wrong with Truffles Delicatessen (www.wyenot.com/truffles Tel: 01989 762336) in Ross-on-Wye, an amazing deli that sells everything from cheeses to medieval mead. Ask about their huge range of local produce if you really want to get down with the Herefordshire homies.

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The Saracen’s Head Inn pub-with-rooms really is special, situated as it is right on the banks of the fast-flowing River Wye in some of the UK’s most spectacular scenery.