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The Ship Inn - Porlock

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Legendary Exmoor Bolthole

There are pubs and then there are legendary pubs - the lovely Ship Inn in Porlock is most certainly one of the latter. Built in 1290 (apparently on the site of an even older hostelry), it’s played host to smugglers, sailors, poets (Samuel Taylor Coleridge, Wordsworth and Robert Southey were fans), famous literary characters (namely Lorna Doone) and ghosts, is home to rumoured secret passages and a historic skittles alley and, to top it all, is in the heart of one of Somerset’s most picturesque villages.

Unsurprisingly, the Ship Inn is one of the oldest inns on Exmoor and is as cosy and welcoming as you would expect. In the winter, roaring log fires and plenty of CAMRA-approved local ales warm the cockles, while a sunny terrace is great for summer lounging. This is no glammed-up gastropub - there’s a quiz night on the second Friday of every month, plus skittles and shove ha’penny if you fancy a go - but this genuinely friendly bolthole is all the better for it. Five en-suite bedrooms are simply, but cosily furnished, with flat screen tellies, big beds and some lovely views of Porlock.

The Ship Inn’s popular restaurant serves up great pub grub and bistro classics, much of it made with fresh, local ingredients. Generous portions and a fab list of local ales, wines and ciders make for a bit of a show-stopper of a proper pub meal.

Where is it?

Lovely lovely Porlock is a pretty Somerset village just a mile and a half from the coast and the village’s gorgeous harbour at Porlock Weir. In a hollow below Exmoor, its surrounded by the dramatic landscape that inspired RD Blackmore’s famous book, Lorna Doone - some of which is based in the village - and is a great jumping-off point for exploring both the National Park and its very scenic coastline.

The village itself is great for a potter - the little shops, tearooms and art gallery are charming. But it’s the footpath that leads to Porlock Weir and the harbour village itself that are the real stars of the show. A tiny port with its own flotilla of yachts and fishing boats, Porlock Weir is dwarfed by the cliffs that surround it, while its far-reaching shingle beach makes it perfect for paddling and romantic coastal strolls. The 2-mile walk along the coastal path from Porlock Weir to the hamlet of Culbone is particularly stunning - a favourite stroll for local hero Samuel Taylor Coleridge, it winds through dappled woodland, with a sheer drop to the sea on one side and glimpses of glittering water through the trees. The tiny church at Culbone - said to be the smallest in England, and only reachable by the footpath, is really lovely.

Of course, Exmoor is all about the walking and not just on its coastline. The highest point in the National Park, Dunkery Beacon - all 1,705 ft of it - is only 5 miles from Porlock and is a great place to get your fill of fresh air. On a clear day, the summit offers stunning views on a clear day across Exmoor, Dartmoor, the Bristol Channel, the English Channel, the Brecon Beacons and even the Severn Bridge, while in summer, the hill is blanketed in beautiful, purple heather. The vast, National Trust-owned Holnicote Estate ( www.nationaltrust.org.uk Tel: 01643 862452) is also nearby, including over 100 miles of windy paths, some stunning Exmoor villages - little thatched Selworthy, 2 miles from Porlock, is unthinkably gorgeous - and 4 miles of spectacular Bristol Channel coastline. For even more Exmoor walks, log on to the brilliant www.walkingbritain.co.uk.

If walking on its own isn’t enough, Exmoor is also a playground for all things equine - the National Park is home to the famously hardy Exmoor ponies, plus lots of great Riding Stables. The Knowle Riding Centre ( www.knowlemanor.co.uk Tel: 01643 841342) at Knowle Manor, six miles from Porlock, is a good place to start.

If miles of walking (or riding) really isn’t your thing (or maybe you weren’t quite as fit as your unused Holmes Place membership card led you to believe...), there’s plenty of fantastic places to visit by car. Eight miles from the Ship Inn (a lovely walk, incidentally) is the romantic medieval village of Dunster. With over 200 listed buildings, the village is remarkably well-protected from the scourge of mass-tourism and is a potterer’s paradise. Pretty boutiques, galleries, antique shops and cafes line the main street, that has stayed pretty much unchanged for centuries. But it’s hard to miss Dunster’s main attraction - the fairy tale Dunster Castle ( www.nationaltrust.org.uk Tel: 01643 823004), which sits on a wooded hill overlooking the village and has views and gardens to die for. For the full romantic experience, walk from the castle to Dunster’s West Somerset Railway station ( www.west-somerset-railway.co.uk Tel: 01643 704996) and board a steam train. The trains stop at the long and sandy Blue Anchor Beach just a mile or so from Dunster and the lovely little harbour town of Watchet, before travelling inland, past the Quantock Hills, towards Taunton.

The coastal town of Minehead (or the self-titled ‘Somerset Riviera’) is just six miles from Luxborough, and is as traditional a British seaside resort as you’re likely to find. The long, sandy beach is great, but it can all get quite busy in the summer. For a slightly less hectic beach experience, head thirteen miles west to the twin coastal villages of Lynton and Lynmouth, which are joined by the quirky, water-powered Lynton and Lynmouth Cliff Railway ( www.cliffrailwaylynton.co.uk Tel: 01598 753486). Lynmouth, at the bottom of the gorge created by the two Lynmouth rivers, is dwarfed by the dramatic backdrop where Exmoor meets the sea. It’s a very pretty place, despite a glut of tourists in the summer, and has a shingle beach that’s great for surfers, baskers and paddlers alike.

Where can I eat?

The food at the Ship Inn is simple, but really good - perfect if you want a well-deserved feast (and a pint or two) after a long day’s walking. Porlock’s other culinary highlight is The Whortleberry Tearoom ( www.whortleberry.co.uk Tel: 01643 862337), purveyor of owner Pam’s home-made cakes, scones and crumpets, plus a good range of loose-leaf teas. Delicious.

For something a little more refined, the local gastro-star is Andrews on the Weir ( www.andrewsontheweir.co.uk Tel: 01643 863 300), a gorgeous, award-winning restaurant right on the water at Porlock Weir. Simple, but mouthwatering, British-led dishes are served in a beautiful dining room overlooking the pretty harbour outside. Lots of local produce (including very local fish) and those views make for a memorable meal.

Other alternatives might mean a trip in the car, but are well worth the effort. Reeves Restaurant ( www.reevesrestaurantdunster.co.uk Tel: 01643 821414) in Dunster is a very cosy place, with a great menu of British and French dishes made with the freshest of local ingredients. Unsurprisingly, given Dunster’s coastal location, the seafood is especially great. For a great gastropub, drive the 11 miles inland from The Ship Inn to the lovely village of Luxborough and The Royal Oak Inn. Passionate head chef Tim Sandy’s menus are elegantly rustic - a mouthwatering and vibrant collection of British-led dishes, with a regularly-changing specials board making fantastic use of great seasonal and local ingredients. Oh, and the puddings and cheeses are to die for. Otherwise, you could try Woods Bar & Dining Room (Tel: 01398 324007) in pretty Dulverton, a very cosy and pleasingly bustling pub-restaurant. Winner of 2007’s Wine Pub of The Year, Woods is just as lauded for its hearty menu - made from the freshest local produce and cooked by Provencal chef Oliver Certan - a great mix of British and French bistro deliciousness. It’s 19 miles from Porlock, but well worth the trek.

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There are pubs and then there are legendary pubs - the lovely Ship Inn in Porlock is most certainly one of the latter.