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The Summer House - Penzance

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Light, bright restaurant-with-rooms

If you’re looking to escape, you can’t get much further than the ends of the earth. Well, ok, the end of mainland Britain, but that’s far enough for us. The western tip of Cornwall is a wild and romantic place, and you can start your romantic break hundreds of miles away - the London to Penzance overnight train is the perfect way to get cosy and get the most out of your Cornish bolthole.

And there can be few boltholes more worthy of the journey than The Summer House - a small, friendly boutique restaurant-with-rooms that demands relaxation. The Grade II Regency house looks like a giant, fairytale beach hut, and its location just 50m from the sea, and distinctly laid-back, Mediterranean atmosphere mean the ozone and wheeling seagulls outside are the stars of the show. Owned by the lovely Linda and Ciro Zaino, this is a light and airy home-from-home, with enough quirks and character to keep things cosy, but with all the space and the laid-back attitude you need from a seaside retreat. Each of the five bedrooms have the optimum mixture of comfort, style and individuality, with big, squishy beds, lovingly-chosen antique furniture, wooden floors, lots of period features and colour schemes that will take you right back to the seaside of your childhood. Lovely en-suite bathrooms, DVD players and a whole library of magazines and books to get stuck into are just the icing on the cake.


Downstairs, and things are light and airy, with fresh flowers and big windows. The Summer House’ award-winning restaurant is the perfect place for a romantic meal, and Chef Ciro’s simple, yet mouthwatering Mediterranean menus couldn’t be more suited. His experience in top London restaurants has given him the innovative, exciting edge that many fine dining restaurants would kill for, but The Summer House is so friendly and relaxed that it makes the food even more enjoyable. Local ingredients, including great, freshly-caught seafood, are in abundance, and Ciro’s puddings are fantastic - in a sophisticated, elegant and very French way.

Where is it?

The Cornwall town of Penzance is a sea-air-filled mixture of modern town, historic port, arts-centre, seaside and Pirate haven (ok, maybe not the last one...). It’s a vibrant place to stay and surprisingly cosmopolitan considering it’s proximity to the wild, windswept tail-end of the British Isles.

Ten years ago, it could be argued that Penzance wasn’t quite up there on the Weekend Desination Charts. But thanks to a speedily blossoming arts scene and an exciting community of artists, poets, retired A-listers and foodies, the town has given taken ‘up-and-coming’ to a whole new level. At the centre of this cultural revolution is picturesque Chapel Street, the most historic of Penzance’s thoroughfares and a jumble of architectural styles. Amidst the historic buildings - including the ornate and over-the-top 19th century Egyptian House, the Union Hotel (where Nelson’s death was first announced in 1805) and the 13th century Turk’s Head pub (www.turksheadpenzance.co.uk Tel: 01736 363093), the oldest pub in Penzance - is a new spring of buzzy art galleries. The Goldfish Gallery (www.goldfishfineart.co.uk Tel: 01736 360573) exhibits work from some of the UK’s brightest talent, and has been hailed as an art mecca, rivalling anything you can find in London, by art critic Brian Sewell. The Hilton Young gallery (www.hiltonyoung.com Tel: 01736 332 115) is another artist hotspot, while the exciting new Exchange Gallery (www.theexchangegallery.co.uk Tel: 01736 363715), just off Chapel Street, and the Glasshouse Gallery (www.glasshousegallery.co.uk Tel: 01736 367619) on market Jew Street are just some of the other galleries dotted around the town.

At the bottom of Chapel Street is... the sea, which is hard to escape wherever you are in town. The beautiful expanse of Mount’s Bay stretches from Lizard Point to the eastern side of the Land’s End peninsula, and offers an easy escape from the town if you want to get away from it all. Sandy beaches, rocky outcrops, hidden coves and coastal paths are in abundance. For a lovely, out-of-town stroll, walk the three miles west along the coast to the picture-postcard fishing village of Mousehole.

Back in Penzance the seafront is long and stroll-able, with a busy harbour and wave-battered esplanade. For a touch of old-school glamour, take a dip in the amazing Art Deco Jubilee Swimming Pool (Tel: 01736 362341) - the largest open-air sea-water tidal swimming pool still in use in the UK. Open all summer, the super-stylish lido, that stretches far out into the harbour, has its own little cafe and plenty of stripy deckchairs to lounge in. Ok, so the water’s not exactly Med-warm, but for a blast of freshness you can’t beat it.

For more chilling-out opportunities in Penzance, head for the acres of gardens between the town centre and the sea front. The Morrab gardens (www.morrablibrary.org.uk) are three acres of exotic planting, secluded green spaces, statues and fountains, that surround the reading rooms of the Georgian Morrab Library. Close by is Penlee House and Gardens (www.penleehouse.org.uk Tel: 01736 363625), an elegant 19th century house that is now an(other!) art gallery, home to many works from the local Newlyn group of artists, and surrounding parkland and gardens.

Venturing out from Penzance is made very easy by the fact that it’s surrounded by some of the most stunning landscapes and seascapes in the country. Any view out to Mount’s Bay will include the fairytale St Michael’s Mount (www.stmichaelsmount.co.uk Tel: 01736 710507), a tiny rocky island topped by its famous medieval castle. It’s a must-visit for romantics and the castle, beaches and gardens can easily take up a day to explore. You can walk out to the island at low tide, or catch a boat from the village of Marazion, three miles east of Penzance. Another short trip out of town (about 20 minutes) will take you to the jaw-dropping Minack Amphitheatre (www.minack.com Tel: 01736 810181), a huge open-air theatre that was built in the early 20th century, but could easily be mistaken for a stumbled-upon Roman legacy. The theatre sits on the edge of a cliff, with stunning views out to sea, and is worth a visit even if you’re not intending to enjoy one of the Minack’s regular productions.

Where can I eat?

The obvious choice has to be Ciro’s stunning little restaurant at The Summer House. Not only is the food mouth-watering, but there’s nothing better than enjoying a fantastic meal and a bottle (or two) of vino, safe in the knowledge that your bed is within stumbling distance.

If you are after an alternative, however, there are plenty of great eating places in Penzance. For supreme style and a fantastic fine dining experience, try the Michelin-starred Abbey Restaurant (www.abbeyrestaurant.co.uk Tel: 01736 330680) on Abbey Street, close to Chapel Street. Head Chef Michael Riemenschneider presides over an amazingly fresh and vibrant set of menus - including a fab tasting menu - that uses lots of local ingredients, including some great Cornish seafood. If you are very keen to sample the best the area has to offer, opt for the Menu Surprise - seven courses chosen by Michael, using the best of the day’s market. Locals and critics alike have fallen in love with the place.

For stunning views while you’re eating, try The Bay (www.bay-penzance.co.uk Tel: 01736 366890), an award-winning eatery with a magnificent terrace that offers views over the Penzance rooftops and out to sea. The emphasis at The Bay is on the best of Cornish fayre, with a deliciously rustic menu made with some fantastic local and seasonal ingredients. It’s also a lovely light and airy place for a special lunch.

Cosy Harris’s (www.harrissrestaurant.co.uk Tel: 01736 364 408) is perfect for a romantic little evening meal. The award-winning menus are full of lovely Cornish produce, with some puddings to kill for. Alternatively, the stylish Bakehouse (www.bakehouse-penzance.co.uk Tel: 01736 331331) is a great place for a laid-back, bistro-style eating experience.

For a real Cornish evening out, try the historic Admiral Benbow (Tel: 01736 363448) on Chapel Street, probably the most famous inn in town. Sit amidst the maritime memorabilia - ships’ figureheads, cannons and wreck salvage - and enjoy some great local ales and excellent pub grub. The Rolling Stones loved it, so there’s no reason why you shouldn’t too.

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The Grade II Regency Summer House Hotel looks like a giant, fairytale beach hut, and its location just 50m from the sea, and distinctly laid-back, Mediterranean atmosphere mean the ozone and wheeling seagulls outside are the stars of the show.