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Thirty Two - Cheltenham

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The epitome of luxurious Cheltenham chic

While you may have stayed in places you wished were your own, or seen a particular wallpaper in a hotel and though “hmm… that’s rather nicer than the magnolia tat I’ve just covered my hallway in at great expense”, it’s not often that you’re left gripping onto the front door frame at the end of your weekend’s stay, while your husband / wife / therapist tries to forcibly drag you home. Well, things didn’t go quite that far when we visited the fantastic Thirty Two in Cheltenham, but given half the chance…

Owned by the two lovely Jonathans – Jonathan Sellwood and Jonathan Parkin – it comes as no surprise to learn that one is an experienced and well-thought-of interior designer, while the other might just as well be. Their B&B (and I use the term very hesitantly – I’ve never seen a B&B like this before) is stunning – outside a classic, elegant Regency townhouse, inside an aladdin’s cave of gorgeous colour schemes, decadent wallpapers, designer furniture, carefully-chosen vintage pieces and thoroughly fantastic lighting. It’s like the set of a fashion shoot, only friendly, comfy and devoid of twig-like models in pants.

The two Jonathans, clearly very proud of their baby, and the attention it’s deservedly getting from the national press, and yet thoroughly down-to-earth about the whole thing, are great, if unlikely, B&B landlords. Showing us round the house - from the enormous first-floor sitting room, with its floor-to-ceiling sash windows, stunning fireplace and elegant chandeliers, to the opulent dining room in an egg-blue you only wish you were brave enough to pull off in your own home – it’s obvious how much they love their home, even arguing over which bedroom they think is the best. If we were to stick our neck out, we’d plump for cosy little Snowshill which, although the smallest bedroom, is cute and romantic, with the most amazing hexagonal wallpaper. All of the bedrooms are stunning, however, with period features such as fireplaces and airy sash windows mixing well with modern comfy-chic. Plus, the boys certainly know how to make their guests feel special - fab Egyptian cotton bed linen, goose down duvets and pillows, flat screen tellies, roll-top baths, rain showers, bathrobes, Penhaligons toiletries – the list of little luxuries is endless.

Breakfast at Thirty Two is no less luxurious, with home-made muesli a speciality, served in that dining room. And before you leave for the day’s pottering, pop into Thirty Two’s design showroom. Lots of the furniture, lighting and bits and bobs that you’ve been drooling over in the B&B are for sale – we think it might be time to ditch the magnolia once and for all.

Where is it?

Elegant Cheltenham is undoubtedly a weekend destination with a bit of class and Thirty Two sits right in the heart of it. Home to some of the best Regency architecture in the country (Thirty Two overlooks Imperial Gardens, the town’s most famous, and most picturesque, Regency garden square), plus one of the most famous racecourses in the country, and one of the best-known girls’ public schools in the country, Cheltenham is certainly a thoroughbred as far as British towns go. And all this because of pigeons (the story goes that in 1716, a flock of pigeons discovered a spring on the site of what is now the Ladies’ College, became rather happy and healthy after frolicking in it’s waters and inspired some clever entrepreneurs to persuade rich humans to do the same – Cheltenham soon became one of the most popular and glamorous spa resorts in England).

But don’t go thinking that all these gentrified connections have made Cheltenham a slow-moving, Sloane-alone oasis of dull. Far from it – great bars and restaurants, a thriving arts scene, great shopping and, of course, those race horses, make it the ideal destination for a buzzy, yet beautiful weekend retreat.

If history is your bag, you only need wander around Cheltenham to soak it all in. The stately town hall (www.cheltenhamtownhall.org.uk Tel: 01242 227979), is a good place to start, with its cavernous, pillar-flanked main Hall as its gorgeous centre piece. Today, it’s one of the best places to catch live music and comedy in town. The other historical must-see is Pittville Pump Room (www.pittvillepumproom.org.uk Tel: 01242 227979), a masterclass in Regency architecture, and the place to be in 1830. You can still taste the Cheltenham spring waters there (if you really want to – quite frankly, they’re disgusting…). At the far northern end of the town, the Pump Room overlooks pretty Pittville Park, which, with its lawns, gardens and two lakes is a perfect place for a picnic.

If relaxing doesn’t appeal, Cheltenham is also a great place for that ageless past-time – shopping. From the high street, at the smart town-centre Regent Arcade shopping centre, to the high brow on The Promenade (or “The Prom”), surrounded by white, Regency buildings. But for something a bit different, venture out of the centre and find The Suffolks and The Montpellier districts – colourful collections of independent boutiques, galleries, pavement cafes and antiques shops, with a cool, village-y atmosphere.

Cheltenham’s cultural scene is vibrant and worth seeking out at any time of the year, but for some of the best music and cultural talent in the country, it’s worth planning your visit around one of the town’s many festivals. The Cheltenham Music Festival ( www.cheltenhamfestivals.com" Tel: 01242 227979), held in July, has been running since 1945 and is one of the best classical music events in the country. Musicians, orchestras and singers come from all corners to perform in venues across town, including the Town Hall and Pump Room, plus churches, bars, theatres and in the open air. The Cheltenham Jazz Festival (contact details as above), in late April, is arguably even more famous, and is a mecca for jazz fans from all over the world, while the Cheltenham Literature Festival (contact details as above) in October is a ten-day feast of all things written, attracting big-name authors, poets, comedians and, well, wordsmiths generally. There’s even a world-class Science Festival in June for any boffins needing a busman’s summer holiday.

All of these festivals mean that throughout the year, Cheltenham’s population numbers rise and fall like they’re on a pogo stick, and vacancies at hotels and B&Bs do the same. But if there’s any one week that the inefficient traveller is almost guaranteed to find no room at the inn, it’s in March, during The Festival at Cheltenham Racecourse when whole of Cheltenham gets gripped by horse racing fever culminating on the Friday with the world-famous Cheltenham Gold Cup. With its backdrop of beautiful Cotswold scenery, Cheltenham Racecourse (www.cheltenham.co.u Tel: 01242 226 226), is a great place to have a flutter, and if you don’t fancy the scrum of trying to stay in town during The Festival, there are other weekend race meets in October, November, December and January.

Of course, you can’t talk about Cheltenham without mentioning its stunning surroundings. Proclaiming itself (along with all the others) to be the ‘Gateway to the Cotswolds’, the town is certainly perfectly placed to visit the miles and miles of rolling hills, country lanes and picture-perfect villages that make up the UK’s largest Area of Outstanding Beauty. The gorgeous Cotswold town of Broadway is only half an hour from Cheltenham, while the fairytale Sudeley Castle (www.sudeleycastle.co.uk Tel: 01242 602308) - aka Liz Hurley’s wedding venue - with its tumbling ruins and eminently wander-able gardens, are just a twenty minute drive away. For more information on what to see, where to go and the best places to eat in the area, read The Weekenders Guide to The Cotswolds.

Where can I eat?

Cheltenham is full of great places to eat, but it’s reputation as a bit of a gastronomic destination means that, for the best places at least, you need to book ahead. This definitely applies for the two-Michelin-starred Le Champignon Sauvage (www.lechampignonsauvage.co.uk Tel: 01242 573449) – arguably (but most probably) Cheltenham’s best restaurant. Warm and friendly and surprisingly lacking pretension, this (less surprisingly) French restaurant is the stuff of Cotswold legend. Chef David Everitt-Matthias, who seemingly spends nearly his whole life in the restaurant’s kitchen, and his wife, Helen, offer elegant and sophisticated dishes that mix traditional French cooking with a modern twist. Definitely worth treating yourself…

For an equally elegant, but slightly more low-key, dining experience, try Lumiere (www.lumiere.cc Tel: 01242 222200), a gorgeously stylish and romantic restaurant that serves mouthwatering, vibrant fusion dishes. A Cheltenham stalwart is The Daffodil (www.thedaffodil.co.uk Tel: 01242 700055), where the menus are great, but the restaurant itself is the star. Located in an old art-deco cinema, and recently refurbished by modern-day fop, Laurence Llewellyn-Bowen, it’s simply a stunning place to sit and enjoy. If you’d rather escape the centre of town, chill out and gorge yourself on comfort food, the area’s best gastropub, The Langton (www.thelangton.co.uk Tel: 01242 258941) in the pretty village of Charlton Kings (about 2 miles outside Cheltenham) is fab. Way-above-average pub grub, sharing plates and posh pizzas mean there’ll be something for everyone.

For something a bit different, Brosh (www.broshrestaurant.co.uk Tel: 01242 227277) is a fantastic Eastern Mediterranean restaurant that’s received rave reviews. Serving vibrant and exotic dishes influenced by Moorish, Arabic, Jewish and Mediterranean flavours, it’s a refreshing change from the norm. And the bread… oh, the bread is to die for.

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This B&B (and I use the term very hesitantly – we’ve never seen a B&B like this before) is stunning – outside a classic, elegant Regency townhouse, inside an aladdin’s cave of gorgeous colour schemes, decadent wallpapers and designer furniture.