Half traditional seaside resort and half vibrant, working port, Teignmouth is a fascinating and colourful place to be. Join the ranks of Georgian and Regency tourists who flocked to stroll the town’s promenade and enjoy the sea air and stay at lovely Thomas Luny House, a stunning Georgian townhouse-turned-cosy-b&b.
Set back from bustling Teign Street by a pretty, flowery courtyard, the house is named after the famous Teignmouth marine artist who built it in 1800. It’s as handsome inside as you would expect - all fireplaces, panelled doors and ticking clocks - perfect for a romantic seaside getaway. Upstairs, four comfy, high-ceilinged en-suite bedrooms are individually furnished, with great beds (one has a four-poster and one an amazing Chinese canopy bed), big sash windows and fluffy bathrobes.
Breakfast is a great spread, with the full English at its best, and lots of lovely fresh extras. It’s served up in a beautiful dining room with french doors opening onto Thomas Luny House’ pretty little walled garden. If you ever hankered after a Jane Austen-style sojourn by the sea, there can be no finer place to stay.
Teignmouth sits in the middle of the lovely South Devon coast and is a classic English seaside resort. A breezy esplanade, lined with colourful flower beds, a miniature golf course and lines of white Regency townhouses, and the obligatory pier are great for a stroll, while the long, sandy main beach stretches out from the mouth of the Teign estuary east towards Dawlish. The older part of the town is a maze of narrow streets and beautiful buildings all heading for the pretty and tranquil Back Beach and the busy harbour, where you might find fishermen landing their catch or a large passenger ship ready for the off.
Catch the historic ferry (www.teignferry.com Tel: 07760 240927) - reputed to be the oldest in England - from the harbour and pop across to the pretty village of Shaldon, on the other side of the estuary. With its colourful fishing fleet, little pebbly beach, thatched cottages and the super-cosy Ferryboat Inn (www.theferryboatinn.net Tel: 01626 872340), with its beach beer garden and summer BBQs, it’s the perfect place to while away a sunny afternoon. For an added treat, visit the village during the Shaldon Festival (www.shaldonfestival.co.uk Tel: 01626 872308), for some cracking classical musical performances. The colourful Shaldon Regatta (www.shaldonregatta.co.uk) in August is also a great time to visit, for boat races, sandcastle competitions and fireworks.
Staying in Teignmouth isn’t all seaside clichés, however. The town is perfectly placed for exploring the whole of Devon, and dramatic Dartmoor is just 10 miles away. The wilds of Dartmoor itself are just immense - 368 square miles to be precise - and are almost overwhelming in their walking, riding, climbing and getting-very-lost opportunities. Walkers should log on to the brilliant www.walkingbritain.co.uk for a great choice of trails of all lengths, maps, photos and directions. If you’re feeling especially energetic, you could even trek the famous 17-mile Templar Way from Teignmouth to Hay Tor, right in the middle of the National Park. For Dartmoor bike hire, try Onabike (Tel: 01626 334664) in Newton Abbot, 6 miles from Thomas Luny House. Alternatively, you could explore the moors by horseback - probably one of the best and most exciting ways to do it. Dartmoor Riding Centre ( www.dartmoorstables.com Tel: 01364 621281) in Widecombe-in-the-Moor, right in the heart of Dartmoor and a half an hour’s drive from Teignmouth, offer hacks for all levels of rider.
If all this sounds thoroughly exhausting, you could always see the whole of Dartmoor in one go from the comfort of a hot air balloon. Airtopia Ballooning ( www.airtopia.co.uk Tel: 0845 226 2717), in Ivybridge, operate thoroughly romantic balloon trips with some of the best views in Britain.
For a day out that takes slightly less effort, visit romantic Powderham Castle (www.powderham.co.uk Tel: 01626 890243) on the lovely Exe estuary, about 9 miles from Thomas Luny House. Owned by the Earl of Devon, a descendant of the original 14th century owner, Sir Philip Courtenay, the turreted castle sits in its own peaceful deer park, with attractive grounds that reach right down to the water’s edge. Take a tour of the magnificent interior, before strolling through the grounds and up the estuary to the fantastic Turf Inn (www.turfpub.net Tel: 01392 833128). One of the few pubs in Britain not accessible by road, the pub has the estuary on one side and Turf Locks on the other, making it virtually surrounded by water. Spend the rest of the day enjoying The Turf’s local real ales and cider, plus some great food made with yummy local produce, or catch the ferry (www.topshamtoturfferry.co.uk Tel: 07778 370582) across the estuary to the gorgeous little waterside town of Topsham. Lovely.
It just so happens that the best restaurant in Teignmouth is within stumbling distance of Thomas Luny House. The Owl and the Pussycat (www.theowlandpussycat.co.uk Tel: 01626 775321) is a stylish, but cosy little place, with a light and airy dining room and pretty garden - perfect for eating al fresco in the summer. Young head chef Nils Swindell, a former protegé of West Country culinary heroes Rick Stein and John Burton-Race, serves up mouthwateringly unpretentious food made with the best in West Country produce, and the puddings are to die for. Alternatively, for a real local favourite, try Colosseum (www.francoscolosseum.co.uk Tel: 01626 870000), a fab and cosy Italian restaurant that serves freshly-made pasta and home-made ice cream - a real taste of the Mediterranean.
Cross the mouth of the Teign to the village of Shaldon to visit Ode (www.odetruefood.co.uk Tel: 01626 873977), a chic little eating place, with a fine culinary pedigree. Owner and head chef Tim Bouget, formerly of the three-Michelin-star Waterside Inn and a plethora of luxury hotels, is deeply passionate about his food and it shows. Locally-produced, seasonal and organic ingredients are paramount at Ode and the healthy, vibrant and fresh menus are the delicious result.
For a taste of the countryside, drive the 13 miles inland from Teignmouth to the sixteenth-century Nobody Inn (www.nobodyinn.co.uk Tel: 01647 252394) in pretty Doddiscombsleigh, a multi-award-winning gastropub and all-round top place. It’s also great as a pre or post-walk eating stop, as the surrounding Devonshire countryside, including the magical Haldon Woods next door, is perfect for a healthy stroll.
Of course, you can’t stay beside the seaside without at least one portion of great fish and chips. Luckily, one of the best chippies in the country is just down the coast from Teignmouth. Hanburys (Tel: 01803 329928) in the little resort of Babbacombe, 6 miles from Thomas Luny House, serves fantastic, freshly-caught newspaper-wrapped fodder, but also offers all sorts of deliciousness in its cosy restaurant. Their home-made puddings are particularly great.
Half traditional seaside resort and half vibrant, working port, Teignmouth is a fascinating and colourful place to be. Join the ranks of Georgian and Regency tourists who flocked there and stay at lovely Thomas Luny House.
4 double bedrooms (£90-94)
| Wheelchair access | |
| Child friendly | |
| Baby friendly | |
| Dogs friendly | |
| Breakfast included | |
| Credit cards accepted | |
| Parking available | |
| Station within 10min | |
| Spa Facilities | |
| Discounts available | |
| Restaurant on site |
Trains from London Paddington, changing at Exeter St David's, call at Teignmouth. The journey takes around 2 hours 45 minutes.