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Thurnham Keep - Thurnham

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A Jacobean countryside retreat

Lovely Thurnham Keep has all the grandeur of an elegant country seat - a dramatic Jacobean facade, landscaped grounds, tennis courts and a croquet lawn - but the welcoming feel of a much-loved family home. Built, not in the 17th century, but as a shining example of eccentric Edwardian architecture, the house has been bought and adored by Amanda, who grew up there, and her husband Mark. Together, they’ve turned Thurnham Keep into a gorgeous and romantic B&B.

It may sit just 40 miles from London and 3 miles from the busy town of Maidstone, but the little hamlet of Thurnham, with its ruined castle and ancient village church is the perfect spot for a bit of rural escapism. Thurnham Keep itself is surrounded by 7 acres of its own parkland and gardens, so we’re talking optimum relaxation and fantastic, far-reaching views. Inside, the big and airy bedrooms, full of Edwardian period features - high ceilings, huge sash windows, fireplaces, lovingly-collected vintage furniture - are perfect for a luxurious lie-in. The amazing antique beds have hand-sprung mattresses and crisp, Egyptian cotton linen, while two of the lovely en-suite bathrooms still have big Edwardian porcelain bathtubs taking centre stage. All this timeless elegance isn’t laid on at the expense of modern luxury, of course. CD players, lovely toiletries and fluffy bathrobes are the icing on the cake.

Elsewhere in the house, the oak-panelled sitting room with its wood-burning stove is the place to be on cold, winter afternoons, while the lovely conservatory is perfect for watching the sunset in the summer. It’s serious chill-out material, although if you can’t bear to be motionless for a whole weekend (are you mad?), there’s Thurnham Keep’s gorgeous, lavender-fringed heated pool to enjoy, plus those tennis courts and croquet lawn. Breakfast is served in the morning room, with fruits from the kitchen gardens, Mark’s home-made jam and free-range eggs from Thurnham Keep’s own chickens on the menu.

In conclusion, it’s all a bit perfect.

Where is it?

Tiny Thurnham sits nestled between the rolling North Downs and the Kentish Weald, yet only 5 miles from the handy M20. The hamlet consists of the pretty, 12th century, St Mary the Virgin’s church, Thurnham Keep, a few other houses and The Bell Inn and Black Horse pubs, all watched over by the ivy-covered, medieval ruins of Thurnham Castle. And that’s about it really. The picturesque village of Bearsted is 2 miles down the road, famous for its cricket green (it’s where overarm bowling was first introduced, don’t you know...) and Kentish oast houses, while in every other direction are miles of glorious Kent countryside. For walkers and cyclists Thurnham is perfect. The famous Pilgrim’s Way, an ancient 120-mile trail from Winchester to Canterbury, passes through the village, while the 153-mile North Downs Way passes right behind Thurnham Castle. Both might be a bit of a stretch for a weekend stroll, but there are plenty of smaller loops you can enjoy. A nice, 2-mile ‘walking the walls’ trail takes you through the village to White Horse Wood and back past the castle - perfect for a post-lunch leg stretch. If biking’s your bag, The Black Horse Inn (www.wellieboot.net Tel: 01622 73718) does cycle hire.

If you don’t mind putting your pedal to the metal, however, there’s plenty to see and do within driving distance. Beautiful Leeds Castle (www.leeds-castle.com Tel: 01622 765400) is just 5 miles from Thurnham and the perfect place to while away an aimless Saturday. Set on two islands in the middle of the River Len, this 900-year-old fairytale of a castle has been on an almost constant programme of restoration since its foundations were laid, so is impressively and gloriously intact. Wander through its sumptuous interiors or stroll through acres and acres of surrounding parkland and gardens - it’s all stunning. Alternatively, for the best way to view the whole shabang in all its glory, book ahead for a ride in the Leeds Castle Hot Air Balloon (Tel: 01622 873200).

A little further afield, but certainly worth the journey, is the historic city of Canterbury, a twenty-minute drive from Thurnham. Its world famous Cathedral (www.canterbury-cathedral.org Tel: 01227 762862), a towering edifice of jumbled architectural styles with a jaw-dropping, cavernous interior, is one of the UK’s very few UNESCO World Heritage Sites, along with St Augustine’s Abbey (www.english-heritage.org.uk Tel: 01227 767345), the romantic ruins of the abbey built in 597AD and St Martin’s Church - England’s oldest parish church still in use (it’s believed to have been built in the 4th century). The latter sit just outside the old city walls. The city itself sits on the pretty River Stour, and is a jumble of period building styles, cobbled streets and modern shopping. The attractive heart of Canterbury can only be explored on foot, and it’s easy to while away a day wandering aimlessly, but if you really want to discover all of the city’s hidden gems, you’d do well to follow one of the city’s numerous guided tours. One of the best is a Canterbury River Tour (www.canterburyrivertours.co.uk Tel: 07790 534 744) - which operate from April to September. Enjoy being ‘chauffered’ (ie rowed) through town on the River Stour by one of the company’s young and enthusiastic crew and see some of the city’s most beautiful sights, including the cathedral, from a new angle.

Otherwise, for a real breath of fresh air, drive the half an hour to the lovely seaside resort of Whitstable, with its vibrant arts scene, fisherman’s cottages, windy streets and candy-coloured beach huts. Still a thriving fishing harbour, Whitstable’s bustling fish market (Tel: 01227 771245) is a highlight, while the pebbly beach stretching for miles towards Herne Bay is pure seaside heaven. The heart of the town is Harbour Street, a higgledy-piggledy row of boutiques, cafes and, most famously, art galleries. The little Harbour Gallery (www.harbourgallery.co.uk Tel: 01227 277044) is a great place to pick up paintings of the Whitstable seascapr by local artists.

Where can I eat?

Sitting right on the Pilgrim’s Way, the friendly Black Horse Inn (www.wellieboot.net Tel: 01622 73718) is a great place for a drink and dinner - and all within a few minutes’ walk of Thurnham Keep. A vibrant and unexpectedly sophisticated menu has made The Black Horse a local favourite, with British and European dishes made with lots of lovely local and seasonal ingredients. The pub itself is warm and cosy, with a fab terrace for summertime alfresco dining. For a real ‘Garden of England’ experience, try their fruity country wines mixed with a big slog of soda water. Yum.

For something slightly less rustic, the award-winning Souffle (www.soufflerestaurant.net Tel: 01622 737065), a mile from Thurnham at Bearsted Green, is perfect. Set in a 16th century house overlooking the pretty village green, the little restaurant serves British food with a gallic twist in fine dining menus that are passionately seasonal. The puddings are an extra-special treat. Further afield, Canterbury is home to the awesome Goods Shed (Tel: 01227 459153) - a small, permanent farmer’s market in an old railway goods shed, with a rustic restaurant attached. Lunches and dinners are cooked using only ingredients from the market that day, so your fish will be as fresh as if you’d just caught it and your bread will have just been baked 30ft from your table. It’s totally fantastic (and the market’s perfect for picnickers too).

For something a little more spangly, the Canterbury city-centre Abode Hotel is home to Michael Caines Restaurant (www.michaelcaines.com Tel: 01227 826684) - a chic dining room with a vibrant Modern British Menu. Head Chef, Mark Rossi, under the guidance of Michael Caine himself (the award-winning chef, rather than glasses-wearing Brit icon), uses lots of local Kent ingredients, including Whitstable seafood and Romney Marsh lamb, in his dishes - while the restaurant’s tasting menu is fantastic.

Whitstable itself has some great eating opportunities. Top of the list is the multi-award-winning Crab & Winkle, a mecca for fish lovers everywhere. The seafood couldn’t be fresher as the harbour is right outside and the fish market just downstairs, while garnishes are simple but mouthwatering. Alternatively, try the world-famous Wheeler’s Oyster Bar (Tel: 01227 273 311) a simple parlour of a restaurant that’s been running for over 150 years. The idea is, very simply, that the freshest, locally sourced produce of all kinds is used to make everything from scratch, even so far as using fish from boats which have returned after a single day's fishing, rather than a two week trip, to give the best possible taste to the restaurant's customers. The locals love it, the critics love it and the local off-license loves it as Wheeler’s is a bring-your-own establishment. Perfect.

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Lovely Thurnham Keep has all the grandeur of an elegant country seat - a dramatic Jacobean facade, landscaped grounds, tennis courts and a croquet lawn - but the welcoming feel of a much-loved family home.