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Two Harton Manor - Hartland

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Cosy b&b with an artistic edge

The windswept parish of Hartland in North Devon is beautifully dramatic - the coastline marks the point where the Bristol Channel becomes the wild Atlantic and is lined with striking cliffs and rocky outcrops. Inland, the scenery is no less lovely, with the rolling Devon countryside pinpricked with pretty little villages and church spires. It’s no wonder then, that the village of Hartland is home to a thriving arts community inspired by the local landscape.

The little b&b at Two Harton Manor is at the core of the scene, as its owner, Merlyn Chesterman is a prolific, globe-trotting painter and printmaker, who has brought her passion for woodcuts to this lovely corner of Devon. Harton Manor is a very attractive 16th-century listed building on the village square, with Two Harton Manor taking over what was once the West Wing. It’s cosy, relaxed and airy and the perfect place to retreat to after a day of fresh air. There are two, super-comfy bedrooms on offer - a really beautiful double, with four-poster bed and lovely bathroom or a smaller, cosy double with shower. In the morning, enjoy Merlyn’s fantastic breakfasts, with the full English made with local farm produce, home-made bread and jams and fresh fruit and yoghurt. Yum.

If the artist in you is awakened by the creative whiff in the air, there is ample opportunity for you to try your hand at woodcut printing, as Merlyn offers courses in the art. We can’t guarantee your efforts will look anything as good as hers, but at the very least they’ll provide a great souvenir to take home to mum.

Where is it?

Hartland sits at the most north-westerly tip of Devon, 14 miles from the attractive market town of Bideford. The village centre is a lovely place for a dawdle, with its ancient town clock, chapel and arts and crafts workshops. A pretty mile’s walk across the valley from the village takes you to Hartland Abbey ( www.hartlandabbey.com Tel: 01237 441264), a grand 12th-century former monastery that became the home of the present owners’ descendants 400 years later. The house itself is fascinating, but it’s the grounds that are the real star of the show - acres of stunning gardens, woodland walks and rolling pasture that leads down to the crashing Atlantic Sea and a romantic little cove. If you were hooked to Andrew Davies’ recent BBC production of Sense and Sensibility, you’ll recognise a 15th century white-washed cottage on the coastal part of the estate as the Dashwood family’s lovely Barton Cottage.

Wherever you are in this part of the world, it’s hard to escape the call of the sea, and a mile from Two Harton Manor is Hartland Quay, a wide bay with a dramatic rocky backdrop. The pebbly beach is sheltered enough for some great paddling and rockpool exploring, while the Wreckers Bar at the windswept Hartland Quay Hotel (www.hartlandquayhotel.com Tel: 01237 441 218) is a cosy spot for a pint and a sarnie by the sea. Pop into the adjoining Shipwreck Museum for some fascinating bits and bobs that have washed up close by. Walks along the coastline are bracing and full of stunning views. The three mile walk along the South West Coast Path from Hartland Quay to the lighthouse at Hartland Point is a proper adventure, with an undulating, winding path and lots of heart-stopping glimpses of the wild Atlantic down below.

Another lovely walk is from Hartland village to the historic little fishing village at Clovelly ( www.clovelly.co.uk), 5 miles away. Hanging on a rocky, 400ft cliff, away from main through-roads and closed to cars, Clovelly has managed to avoid being ruined by centuries of tourism, and is a wonderful place to spend a day. The whole village is privately owned, and you need to pay a small entry fee to get in, but then the steep, cobbledy main street, wattle-and-daub cottages and pretty little fishing harbour are yours to potter around. Sledges are still used to deliver goods to the shops lining the main street, while the Clovelly donkeys, that used to do the job, are still on hand for donkey rides. The village quay is also home to the Jessica Hettie ( www.clovelly-charters.ukf.net Tel: 01237 431405, a fishing boat that can be chartered for trips across to lonely, but lovely Lundy Island ( www.lundyisland.co.uk) - a mecca for divers, climbers, artists and wildlife-watchers.

Where can I eat?

The cosy Hart Inn (www.thehartinn.com Tel: 01237 441474) is very conveniently situated right next to Two Harton Manor, and does a great line in pub grub during the day and a delicious menu served in the restaurant in the evenings, featuring lots of local produce, including great seafood in season.

For a dinner with a view, the Harbour Restaurant at the Red Lion Hotel (Tel: 01237 431237) in pretty Clovelly is spot on. Book a window seat and enjoy stunning vistas out to see while tucking into elegant French menus, made with local produce, including fish from the harbour and veggies from Clovelly’s kitchen garden. Alternatively, venture 14 miles east along the coast to Westward Ho! and the brilliantly-named Potwallopers ( www.potwallopers.co.uk Tel: 01237 474494), a fresh and funky beach-side restaurant that serves really delicious bistro-style food.

Bensons ( www.bensonsonthequay.com Tel: 01237 424093) in the pretty fishing village of Appledore is an assuming little place, and at 16 miles from Hartland is a bit of a trek. But this award-winning restaurant is one of the best places in North Devon for freshly and locally-caught seafood. Menus will depend on what the trawlermen have brought in that day, but deliciousness is guaranteed - definitely worth the effort to get there.

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Harton Manor is a lovely 16th-century listed building on Hartland village square, with Two Harton Manor taking over what was once the West Wing. It’s cosy, relaxed and airy and the perfect place to retreat to after a day by the sea.